Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

In this second installment of a two-part series, Coach Eric Hörst takes the high-level systems philosophy introduced in Episode #122 and brings it down to earth with practical, actionable guidance. This episode walks listeners through the nine elements of an intelligent training system and illustrates how each one applies directly to climbing preparation and long-term improvement.

Eric emphasizes that as climbers progress beyond the beginner stage, climbing and training grow increasingly complex—requiring intentional, organized, and year-round development of strength, technique, mental skills, recovery habits, nutrition, and lifestyle management. Rather than ad-lib sessions or singular-focus programs (like onl...

This episode is the first in a two-part deep dive into designing a comprehensive, long-term systems approach to training. Coach Eric Hörst unpacks—in rich detail—how systems actually function, and he highlights how transformative climbers throughout history "shake up the box" with innovative, highly effective methods to achieve big goals and push the boundaries of our sport.

Eric blends a concise climbing history lesson with an engineer-like breakdown of how intelligent systems operate. Part 2 of this series will deliver the actionable strategies you can use to build a personalized, high-performance training system for this winter…and for...

Modern athletes know that strength and endurance alone aren't enough. The ability to generate power efficiently, resist injury, and recover quickly depends just as much on the health of connective tissues—tendons, ligaments, and the extracellular matrix (ECM)—as on muscle strength itself. Yet, these vital tissues have long been misunderstood as relatively static and untrainable.

The latest research proves otherwise: tendons and ligaments are remarkably adaptive, capable of remodeling and strengthening in response to targeted loading and proper nutrition.

The white paper presented in this podcast distills more than a decade of cutting-edge research into...

If you're a connoisseur of steep routes, this episode is for you! We've assembled a "Red River Pump" roundtable that reveals the training methods, tactics, and insider strategies for climbing your best on the overhanging walls of the Red — or any steep sport crag you love.

Kris Hampton, Ryan Devlin, and Eric Hörst dive into Red-specific pre-trip and offseason training, mental strategies for embracing the pump, steep redpoint tactics, on-route resting, fueling and recovery, and how to "protect the send."

This is a power-packed, actionable conversation you can apply today to climb stronger, last lon...

Learn five powerful lessons for achieving big, difficult goals that I took away from watching Girl Climber -- the new film that chronicles Emily Harrington's incredible, multi-year journey to free-climb El Capitan's Golden Gate route in under 24 hours.

For me, this isn't just a film about climbing—it's about resilience, will power, and the triumph of human spirit, Furthermore, it serves as a bold reminder of what it takes to stay committed to a dream in the face of fear, doubt, setbacks, and even failure. As Emily's journey shows, greatness isn't built on talent alone. It comes fr...

After nine years as an NFL offensive lineman for the Falcons, Commanders, and Jets, Wes Schweitzer has traded 330-pound trench battles for crimps, slopers, and steep boulders!

In this inspiring conversation, Wes shares how climbing started as elbow rehab modality, turned into a passion, and even improved his football performance. We dive into the parallels between elite football and high-level climbing, his challenges with a variety of football-related injuries, and his bold goal: to become the heaviest climber ever to send V10.

Along the way, Wes reflects on career highlights—Super Bowl appearances, facing Aaron Do...

Nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. The fear of falling, getting hurt, failing, looking foolish, or simply facing the unknown can feel torturous—and even paralyzing.

To climb efficiently and confidently—and to pursue your peak performance—you must learn to assess and manage fear effectively.

In this 90-minute episode, Coach Hörst delivers a tour de force of 18 fear management techniques designed to help you unlock a new level of mental mastery. These practical strategies will empower you to perform at your best on boulders, at the crag, and in everyday life. (Because...

Coach Hörst shares 15 game-changing tips to elevate your climbing this season.

Performance gains aren't made solely in the gym. As Coach Hörst explains, there's a lot you can do in-season—technically, tactically, and nutritionally—to level up your outdoor climbing.

Apply just a few of these strategies today, and you might send your project sooner than expected. Put most or all into practice over the coming weeks, and you could unlock a whole new level of performance this season!

RUNDOWN

0:30 – Introduction: Why these 15 tips matter for your in-season performance.

2...

What does it take to break through to the next climbing grade?

With each new milestone, the challenge grows harder—but potentially more rewarding.

In this special collaboration with The Struggle Podcast, I coach Ryan Devlin as he works to push past his current limit of 5.13a and lay the foundation for his next breakthrough in sport climbing.

No matter your level, the tips and strategies we share in this episode can help guide your own climbing progression. A key focus of our conversation is the concept of building a solid "grade pyramid"—a pr...

The podcast is a classic Eric Hörst tour de force of climbing wisdom! No matter your ability level, training background, or goals, listening to this episode will challenge your current approach and inspire you to reinvent your training for better results.

In this hour-long lecture, Coach Hörst breaks down 10 common training mistakes. Chances are, one, two, or maybe even several of these missteps will hit close to home. But don't get discouraged—get psyched! Identifying these flaws empowers you to train smarter day in and day out, and to course-correct your long-term plan. That's the key...

In this episode, I reveal a powerful — and often overlooked — strategy for developing the mental, technical, and tactical skills needed to level up your climbing.

If you're an intermediate climber passionate about improving — or an advanced climber who's hit a plateau — then this is a must-listen episode.

Even veteran climbers and professionals can use this strategy to refine their skills and "sharpen the saw" each season. America's top sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist, has shared with me that he enjoys and benefits from this approach to route climbing.

So, what is this mysterious climbing strategy...

Welcome to the first episode in a special series of performance-focused conversations with my friend, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. In this fast-paced discussion, we dive into a wide range of topics, including tips for optimizing climbing training, injury prevention, key dietary interventions, performance hacks, and the role of self-discipline and sacrifice. We also explore best practices tailored for hard-training climbers over 35. No matter your age, this episode is packed with actionable insights you can start applying today!

RUNDOWN

0:15 - Coach Eric Hörst's welcome statement.

0:30 - Introduction of my guest, Thomas Cunningham, MD.

Dear Listener, How about -- together -- we all try to SEND 2025?

In other words, let's try to upgrade our thoughts and actions in all we do to make 2025 our best year yet!

Towards this end, in this episode I will serve up tips for improving your training, elevating your climbing, and advancing in other important life areas!

RUNDOWN

0:15 - Eric's greetings...

0:45 - Introductory comments on striving to live your dream life...in climbing and beyond.

3:38 -  Upgrade #1: Improve your time management to maximize time spent engaged i...

In this brief episode, I invite you to join my "Send 2025" New Year's Challenge!

JOIN the SEND 2025 CHALLENGE by filling out this brief Google Form >>

I designed this free 6-week challenge to help motivate and inspire a fresh, focused, and optimistic start to the new year...and hopefully help you set off on your best year ever!

The challenge is action-oriented -- so we'll ask you to set some achievable short-term goals to reach for during the 6-weeks of the challenge. These action items can relate to your training and nutrition goals for...

The title of this podcast may have you thinking "WTF?"

Well, this is a special episode of the T4C podcast...and I think you're going to really enjoy it!

THE Alex Megos has recently launched his own podcast, and during his recent visit to the States he asked me to sit down for a conversation about the history of training, personalized program design, nutrition and recovery, and much much more.

Of course, I was excited for this unique opportunity...and we had a very lively hour and ten minute conversation that I...

In this episode, coach Hörst shares 13 little things that can make a BIG difference when it comes to sending your near limit—or, perhaps, beyond limit!—project boulder or route.

Quite often it's the tiniest of things that can make or break your ascent. Eric covers a lot of territories including the power of proper breathing, the best time of the day to send, the effects of food and drink on energy and focus, how to get the perfect warm-up, how long to rest between attempts, how to win the skin game, the importance of the shoes...

One of the ironies of climbing performance outcomes is that as hard as you've physically trained in preparation, the outcome often hinges on the quality of your mental game.

The power point, here, is that when it comes down to the final days and hours leading up to an important climb, the keys to performing your best are largely mental!

While many athletes "shoot themselves in the foot" in any number of ways in the days or hours leading up to competition — or even during the sports event itself! — a well-coached and mentally apt and expe...

This 20-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics:

This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast.

T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaF...

This 15-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics:

This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast.

T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

SAVE on La Sportiva...

In this Flash episode, I'm going to talk briefly about raising happy, healthy kids with a passion for climbing!

There's no "right" way to raise kid climbers...but I'm going to share the approach that my wife and I used to develop well-rounded kids who, today as young adults (ages 22 and 24), love climbing more than ever!

This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast.

T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout...

This month, I'm serving up multiple "Flash Episodes" of the T4C podcast -- released weekly -- that you can consume in less than 20 minutes. 

The topics covered in this first episode...include the pros/cons of online coaching...and a generalized look at how training (and nutrition) for climbers has changed over the last 40 years.

Upcoming Flash Episodes in September (released weekly) will examine these topics:

What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for Ryan Devlin as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force".

This is a follow-up to episodes #86, #91, and #94, in which I coach Ryan through the long process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way, including a minor finger/hand injury early this year.

We'll discuss Ryan's training plan for the next 6...

Many enthusiastic climbers work hard to level up their performance year over year, and some of us invest great time, effort, and resources into pursuing our climbing goals.

One powerful tool for gaining a performance edge is the use of a functional medicine approach to blood testing…which is the focus of this episode of the T4C podcast.

My expert guest joining us for this episode….is Thomas Cunningham, a Louisville Kentucky-based doctor, who also happens to be a 5.14 climber! Dr. Cunningham is a board-certified physician, researcher, and functional medicine specialist who believes in comb...

To celebrate the 100th episode of the T4C podcast, I wanted to serve up a powerful, comprehensive, yet easily digestible and actionable list of things you can do today to break through a performance plateau...and begin a journey towards being the best climber you can be!

No matter your current experience or level of climbing, I guarantee that you will find this episode to be a tour de force of things you can do to accelerate your rate of improvement...and increase your confidence, joy, and experience while climbing. 

Therefore, a more accurate t...

When it comes to climbing, no single piece of gear is more influential on your performance than your shoes. Getting the right shoe fit and feel for a given boulder or route is critical to climbing your best!

However, there are dozens of climbing shoes on the market with widely varying designs, looks, and prices. What's the right shoe(s) for your gym training and outdoor rock climbing? What features should you look for? How tight should you fit your shoes?

Our shoe expert, Michael Genauer from La Sportiva NA, will answer these questions and...

In this episode, Coach Hörst shares his recent unique training day in the Front Range of Colorado. Eric will contrast the remarkable late-afternoon workout of one of the world's top boulderers, Drew Ruana, with his own route-climbing workout a few hours earlier. 

You will learn the fundamental differences between training for bouldering and route climbing, particularly concerning the energy systems that power climbing movements. Eric with detail his climbing-specific aerobic system route training session at the G1 gym.

Eric will then describe Drew's unique limit boulder training methodology that's elevated him to being one of...

The quality of your contact with the rock is paramount when it comes to climbing performance. Strong muscles, on-point technique, and a confident mindset won't get you up a climb if you can't hang onto the holds!

Many things affect the quality of your grip and the perceived "stickiness" of the holds – to begin with, there's the texture of the rock and the degree of incut (or slope) to the hold. Weather conditions, such as temperature, humidity, and wind play a big role in how the rock feels and your skin performs. Body position, center of gravity lo...

Lean in dear listener...and enjoy the most transparent Training For Climbing podcast ever!

In this engaging episode, Coach Eric Hörst shares an in-depth analysis of his climbing weaknesses...and he reveals the specifics of his program to train for gains in 2024. Eric presents 4 primary action items of his winter training program, and he provides an assessment of his progress as of the end of January.

One of Eric's primary off-season training interventions is twice weekly Kilter Boarding. Eric details exactly how he uses this incredible training tool. He also outlines the importance of c...

Do you want to level up in climbing...and across the board in your life?

Many folks use the fresh start of a new year to set some goals and make course corrections in important life areas. I'm one of those people...and since you're listening to this podcast, you probably are too!

Towards this end, this episode transcends climbing performance...and aspires to increase human performance. I will present to you 15 powerful strategies and concepts that have shaped my MO in climbing and life over the past 30 years...and I trust you'll find this...

What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for a training client of mine (Ryan Devlin) as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force".

This is a follow-up to episodes #86 and #91, in which I coach Ryan through the process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way...as well as a recent big breakthrough. With winter on the approach, the clock is...

In this episode, I detail 7 Training, Performance, and Nutrition Mistakes Common Among Climbers. I'll admit that I've been guilty of a couple of these mistakes in the past…and chances are that you are too. But by recognizing our flawed approaches we are empowered to make course corrections that can improve the effectiveness of our training in the short term and, over the long term, accumulate into a massive change in our ability to crush hard things and break new barriers!

RUNDOWN

0:15 - Welcome

0:50 - Introduction to the "7 Mistakes" that can compromise the qu...

In this episode, I'll share some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish, BC this past August.

I'll give you some of the conference highlights on topics such as recent climbing injury trends, new technology for diagnosing A2 pulley injuries, growth plate injuries among youth climbers, commentary on the RED-S debate and the IFSC controversy, and much more!

RUNDOWN

0:15 - Greetings

0:50 - "Insider Information" from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM)Symposium

1:48 - Backstory on CCM - Follow @ClimbingMedicine

3:30 - Overview of this...

What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations (for Ryan Devlin) as he projects his first 5.13a....with the goal of sending it by the end of this year. 

This is a follow-up to episode #86, in which I presented to Ryan a three-season program for achieving his first 5.13 send. You will hear where Ryan is at with his training--and his project selection!--and I'll help Ryan develop his Autumn season gameplan for working the route...and hopefully clipping the chains by season's end!

Listen in and learn w...

For many climbers, Autumn is the season of sending.

With the start of "send season" just 6 weeks away, this episode will describe a few keys for dialing in your training now to climb your best in October and November.

Lean into this podcast...and let's prepare to SEND!

RUNDOWN

0:14 - Welcome message.

00:50 - Introduction to...6 weeks to send season!

2:57 - 3 key steps for effective training over the weeks until your performance season begins.

4:10 - #1: Identify your specific goal for the Autumn climbing season. Where will...

For many of us, Summer is the season of climbing roadtrips. Whether you're venturing across North America, Europe, or Asia, visiting new climbing areas is a wonderful skill- and experience-building endeavor...and it will likely enrich your life and expand your brain in a number of other ways as well.

In terms of climbing performance, however, one of the most challenging matters while on a roadtrip is managing fatigue. Specifically, you will awake each day and be faced with the decision of whether you should climb...or take a rest day. 

In this T4C e...

The topic for this Flash edition can be summarized in this simple, but powerful concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time!

Obviously, bouldering and sport climbing are much different tactically and emotionally, and they are remarkably different in terms of the mental game, safety systems, and risk management strategies.

However, the focus of this podcast is the obvious physical differences between these two popular climbing subdisciplines. We'll compare and contrast the energy systems involved in high-end bouldering versus sport climbing, and I'll give you...

Imagine going from having no project climb...to sending perhaps your hardest-ever route in just a few short weeks. That's the unusual story I will share with you in this episode.

The route is Kaleidoscope, the Red River Gorge king line, which checks in at 5.13c.

The climber is....yours truly, 50-something coach Hörst.

Despite beginning the Spring 2023 season with a bum knuckle, lack of high-end strength, and no plans to project anything hard...fate put me in the right place at the right time. I was struck with the impulse to j...

What's it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my prescription for one 5.12 climber looking to project -- and send -- his first 5.13a before year's end.

In an interesting and entertaining departure from the typical T4C podcast, you get to listen in on a 70-minute training consult with Ryan Devlin, a client for whom I first wrote a training program about 3 years ago. Since then, Ryan's become a solid 5.12a/b climber with redpoints up to 5.12d. But taking it to the next level will require a modified and comprehensive program...

It's a question I get asked all the time: "Will doing some running (or other cardio) help my climbing performance?" Giving a proper answer demands some nuance based on the individual's phenotype as well as their current level of climbing experience and fitness, and time available for training. (But in many cases, the answer is "yes".) This fast-paced episode gives a scientific basis for helping you determine if doing some running could enhance your climbing performance.

RUNDOWN

0:14 - Welcome

1:00 - Introduction to "running for climbing".

2:20 - The problem with training sound...

In this fascinating episode, Eric Hörst provides a deep and thoughtful overview of the research on the role genetics plays in sports prowess and climbing performance. Leveraging his decades of experience as a climbing coach and 30 years engaging with climbing researchers, Eric tells an empowering story of how the average climber can pursue peak climbing performance.

RUNDOWN

0:15 - Welcome

0:40 - First in a series of podcasts examining the role of genetics, physical strength/power, body weight, and dietary and nutritional practices on training adaptions and climbing performance.

2:06 - The focus o...

If you're passionate about improving your training, elevating your climbing, and advancing in other important life areas....then this is a must-listen podcast!

With the perspective of a new year's renewal, Coach Hörst explains the power of making occasional training, climbing, and life "edits" in the quest for peak performance and a deeper sense of joy and happiness.

RUNDOWN

0:15 - Welcome

0:48 - The importance of "editing" -- in writing...and in training, climbing, and living effectively!

4:33 - You are the author of your training (and life), so it's e...

In this fast-paced episode, Eric details 7 end-of-climbing-season mistakes that you don't want to make!

Becoming aware of common training mistakes, seasonal traps, and/or counterproductive behaviors that climbers commonly succumb to can save you a lot of time and energy, elude setbacks and unintended consequences, and perhaps even avoid injury. Launch into the New Year healthy, motivated, and with a plan for reaching your training and climbing goals!

RUNDOWN

00:43 - Intro to 7 End-of-Climbing-Season Mistakes You Don't Want to Make (by Dwight Schrute, kind of!)

01:40 - Learn a powerful decision-making mantra to...

You have been waiting all week to get out to get outside and climb! You've been training hard and your stoke is high to top some great boulders and/or take the sharp end up a few killer routes. Now that it's "game day", what can you do nutritionally to support—and perhaps enhance—your performance?

This content-dense FLASH edition of the T4C podcast will serve up actionable steps you can take, including how much water your should drink, the types and amounts of foods to consume, and possible ergogenic supplements that might give you an extr...

Do you work or school full-time during the week, then on the weekends set off on a mission to climb your hardest? If so, then you've surely considered how to train most effectively during the workweek...to set yourself up for success on the rocks over the weekend. It is this situation that is the focus of this episode, in which I'll arm you with some strategies and tips for making the most of your weekday training. I'll also touch on some important non-training influences on your weekend climbing--arriving at the boulders or crag 100% ready to send is more...

In this episode, coach Hörst shares 13 little things that can make a BIG difference when it comes to sending your near limit—or, perhaps, beyond limit!—project boulder or route.

Quite often it's the tiniest of things that can make or break your ascent. Eric covers a lot of territories including the power of proper breathing, the best time of the day to send, the effects of food and drink on energy and focus, how to get the perfect warm-up, how long to rest between attempts, how to win the skin game, the importance of the shoes...

This episode is a 75-minute training-for-climbing tour de force by two of the world's top trainers, Tom Randall (Lattice UK) and Eric Hörst (TrainingforClimbing.com). The fascinating format has Tom interviewing Eric on a variety of foundational topics, including finger strength testing and training, methods of endurance training, the pros/cons of System Wall and Campus Training...and the future of training for climbing. This is a must-listen episode for anyone passionate about training for the next grade!

RUNDOWN

0:40 - Intro to this epic conversation between Tom and Eric.

1:35 - Eric reflects o...

Fast-paced and content-rich, this episode features Coach Horst's analysis of pro climber tactics and strategies as featured on The Struggle Climbing Show #14. Eric discusses vital tactics used by pros including Emily Harrington, Alex Megos, Jordan Cannon, Alex Honnold, Kevin Jorgeson, Justin Salas, and more!

This is the third-in-a-series of podcasts on things you can do to climb harder at the boulders and crags this summer…when during this performance season, it's really the mental, technical, and tactical skills that matter most. Listen, learn, apply, be inspired....and then go send your project!

RUNDOWN

0:40...

Your training is done. You've arrived at the boulders or crags. You're ready to begin work on a project...or perhaps you hope to send your ongoing project. It's at these times that your mindset matters most!

In this episode, Coach Hörst provides insights into how you can foster an optimal mental state to begin work on a new project...or send an ongoing project boulder, sport climbing, or big wall. The optimal mindset is highly distinct and dependent on your goal du jour.

You'll learn how to quiet your mind with meditation and s...

Self-awareness is the ability to monitor your internal climate, comprising your thoughts, physical sensations, and emotions, as well as the quality of your actions in the gym, at the crag, and in pursuing your life goals. Improving performance in anything demands that you develop higher awareness in each of these areas. Only this way can you improve your efficacy, make beneficial course corrections, and elevate your performance.

In this podcast, Coach Horst details six areas to strive for increased self-awareness in order to pursue excellence in climbing...and beyond.

RUNDOWN

0:40 - Intro to...

In this Part 2 in the series, 40 Ways to Improve Your Training and Climbing, Coach Hörst provides 20 tips for advanced and elite-level climbers. Discover how to employ a more nuanced and holistic approach to training and performance -- essential for eeking out further gains for high-level climbers with many years of experience.

RUNDOWN

0:30 - Eric's Welcome!

4:04 - Intro to Advanced Climber Tips

6:06 - #1. Strive for a greater nuance of actions taken on and off the rock.

8:02 - #2. Become a true master of rock -- seek to elevate weaknesses...physical, m...

In this two-part series, Coach Hörst provides tips for an effective, holistic approach to steady, long-term improvement. No matter your ability level or weakness (physical, technical, or mental), this podcast will arm you with tips and techniques to put to work, beginning today. Take your game to the next level with tips from episodes 73 and 74! RUNDOWN

0:35 - Eric's Welcome!

2:40 - Recap of Episodes 71 & 72, and how that sets up this Episode 73.

5:00 - Sponsor ad read - please support our sponsors, visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: P...

In this PART 2, hear Eric's training advice for two elite/pro-level climbers. 

For each of the climbers, Eric provides a Climber Overview, Impressions, Training Recommendations to achieve the next level, and a Personalized Program Summary.

In PART 1 (podcast #71) and this episode combined,  Eric coaches four climbers that cover the full spectrum of ability from first-year beginner to full-time professional climber. Chances are, you'll be able to relate to one of these climbers and benefit from Eric's recommendations. Or perhaps, you're at a place in the climbing journey that's midway between two of these climbers...and yo...

Gain clues to improving the effectiveness of your training-for-climbing system from this fascinating two-part podcast!

Listen to Eric's personalized training advice as given to four climbers of widely varying ability. For each of the climbers, Eric provides a Climber Overview, his Impressions, Training Recommendations to achieve the next level, and a Personalized Program Summary.

The four climbers Eric coaches here cover the full spectrum of ability from first-year beginner to full-time professional climber. Chances are, that you'll be able to relate to one of these climbers and benefit from Eric's recommendations. Or perhaps, your place...

In this empowering New Year's podcast, Eric details effective strategies for uncommon success in climbing and any other high-value life activity or mission. Learn 3 essential steps for departing onto a road less traveled--a journey defined by intentional daily action that yields rapid progress, while avoiding common "black holes" that can consume time, energy, and focus...and rob you of your future greatness.

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

RUNDOWN

0:30 - Introduction -- Happy New Year! Let's make 2022 a great one!

1:00...

"The best training program for you is one that you're not currently doing." — Coach Hörst

In this revealing podcast, learn 10 common training mistakes that stunt progress in climbing, slow strength and endurance gains, waste time and energy, and potentially contribute to injury. This is a must-listen impactful podcast for anyone wanting to take their training — and climbing! — to the next level.

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

RUNDOWN

0:20 - Introduction -- the value of an end-of-season analysis and training program...

I've got something different for you in this episode...which I hope that you'll find revealing, instructive, and extremely beneficial. I will take you through the process of working my mini-project during a recent trip to Germany. I'll share with you my thoughts, wide-ranging emotions, and problem-solving techniques in sussing out the beta, challenging my physical limitations (and fears), and going for the send on my final climbing day of the trip.

I trust you'll find some techniques and tactics to adopt and adapt  to improve your boulder or route projecting.

RUNDOWN

0:30 - A...

One of the most powerful concepts I coach is that simple and seemingly "minor things" can make a MASSIVE difference in your training results and climbing performance. This is why I use the word "nuance" so often in my Training For Climbing podcasts!

Warming up before training and climbing is one of those "minor things" that many people do hastily--or dismiss completely. Little do they know that they're sabotaging their ability to train and climb their best. They will likely get "flash pumped" and leak energy, fail to recruit full power, move inefficiently and with undue tension...

This T4C episode serves up numerous powerful tips--that you can put to work immediately--to more effectively work on hard boulders and routes...and send more quickly!

Learn about the power of proprioception and "feel beta" (a coach Hörst secret...shush!), why it's vital to keep an open mind in working crux sequences, how you can reduce your chances of "punting", the benefits of engaging in active recovery between send goes, and the importance of trusting the process and letting the outcome fold organically.

RUNDOWN

0:40 - Podcast Intro

3:38 - Eric m...

To climb your very best -- and to truly enjoy climbing -- you need to become an expert fear manager!

Nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. The fears of falling, getting hurt, failure, embarrassment, and even the fear of the unknown...can be torturous and paralyzing. To climb efficiently and with confidence, you need to be able to assess and manage fear...which is the subject of this podcast.

If you haven't already, do listen to Part 1 on Fear -- Episode #62 -- before commencing with this concluding episode on the topic. Enjoy!

This is Part 2 of Steven Dimmitt's (Nugget podcast) interview of Eric Hörst on a wide range of climbing training and performance topics. In this episode you will learn...how young guns Cameron Hörst (20) and Jonathan Hörst (18) train compared to their coach dad (age 57), tips for parenting/coaching youth climbers, what it takes to climb the next grade (whether it's 5.10 or 5.15), sloper training, the importance of protein, and more. There's a ton of great tips and sage advice in this episode. Lean in and listen up!

Podcast Rundown

00:12 - Intro and overview of Par...

This information-packed episode features Steven Dimmitt of the Nugget podcast interviewing Coach Hörst on all things training. This wide-ranging Q & A covers many vital topics including: how to train for stronger tendons and ligaments, the secrets to developing a really strong core, the benefits of campus training versus hangboard training, personalized training program design, and much more! There's a gold mine of information in this episode....and Part 2 of this interview will serve up even more! Coming soon...

Podcast Rundown

00:12 - Intro to this "best of" the Nugget interview with coach Eric Hörst

Nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. Fear of falling, fear of getting hurt or dying, fear of failure, fear of embarrassment, and even the fear of the unknown affects us all from time to time.

The long-term goal is NOT to eliminate fear, but rather to become an expert fear manager....which is the focus of this (and the next) podcast. Listen in and learn how to assess your fears, manage risk, and take your climbing to the next level with a higher level of mental mastery.

Podcast Rundown

0:30 - Introduction...

Training to get stronger is good. Learning to climb more efficiently so that you can get the most out of the strength and power you currently possess is SMART!

So if you want to progress from good to great, then this podcast is for you! Learn 5 powerful strategies for climbing more efficiently, recovering more quickly, and leveling up your climbing.

Podcast Rundown

0:15 - Roll up your sleeve to receive the Horst booster of Training For Climbing knowledge!

1:55 - Intro to becoming a more efficient climber with more endurance on steep terrain.<...

Learn 8 things to "get right" in order to climb your very best...and to help create more of those wonderful low-gravity send days!

Coach Hörst provides powerful tips for priming your body for peak performance in the days leading up to your weekend climbing. He also gives valuable game-day master tips for optimizing your performance and accelerating recover at the boulders and crags.

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Podcast Rundown Duration: 01:06:52

There are myriad exercises, activities, and sports that climbers engage in with the belief it will elevate climbing performance. For the typical climber, however, most of the climbing-performance benefits come from just a handful of exercises and activities that they do.

Consider, dear listener, everything you do in the name of training--how beneficial is each activity and exercise?

In this podcast, Eric discusses common training tangents, traps, and energy sinks, and he details 10 time-tested exercises/activities that are central to effective training for climbing.

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Chances are...your fingers are already strong enough to climb the next grade. In this podcast, Eric details five ways to increase your apparent finger strength on the rock...and climb one grade harder!

Whether you're an intermediate, advanced, or pro-level climber, you'll surely find a few of Eric's concepts and tips to be empowering...and just maybe provide you with the "secret" to breaking a plateau or sending your project.

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on a PhysiVantage Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS.

Podcast Rundown

6:09 - Gaining more finger...

The beginning of a new year is a great time to think critically about your current situation…and trajectory. What are your short-term goals...and long-term destination? How will you get there?

As you will soon discover, this short podcast transcends climbing performance—it's about human performance!

What does it take to achieve extreme success? What's the #1 thing holding most people back from reaching their big life goals? Eric describes his formula for making steady daily progress towards achieving important goals. You can apply this conceptual model to accelerate progress in any endeavor. So what are...

What could be better than a one-hour Q & A with coach Hörst about all things training? 15 questions on a wide range of topics...and hopefully more than a few that will hit home with you. Enjoy!

Podcast Rundown

4:15 – Question: What advice do you have for returning to crimping after an A2 pulley injury?

7:35 – Question: What are your recommendations for incorporating some strength training in a my routine?

11:40 – Question: What do you think of post-workout cold-water immersion for reducing pain and accelerating recovery?

16:00 - Question: What can I do to prev...

2020 has been a challenging year with a global pandemic, a COVID lockdown at home (or two), and limited climbing travel for many of us. We're now entering the holiday season, with COVID lingering, but hopefully, it will bring some opportunity to celebrate (in small COVID-safe groups?), reset our training, and renew our mindset and body. Is this a good time to take a month off from climbing? NO! There are several options for holiday season training, even if it's all at home. I'll present the benefits and drawbacks of each approach. Which is best for you? Listen in...you...

Are you ready to rethink what's possible in your climbing life? There's a good chance that your perceived limit is actually a self-imposed imaginary boundary!

Once again this month, I present an episode of Training Cafe, my twice-monthly video Livestream coaching show on YouTube and Facebook live. The main topic delves into pursuing next-level projects...and the importance of challenging your inner fears of failure and criticism, just like pro climbers do.

Now is the time to think bigger...develop a system...and execute your plan with uncommon discipline!

Podcast Rundown

2:57...

In this episode, Eric welcomes you into the Training Café...which is his live coaching video stream broadcast every other Monday. So in this podcast, you'll hear Eric's TC broadcast which includes in-depth coaching on effective projecting...and reveals the "secret" to sending! Eric also answers a slew of viewer questions on training, injury, nutrition, and more.

You can participate in future Training Café livestreams--and submit a training question to Eric!--by tuning into this video simulcast on the Training For Climbing Facebook and T4C YouTube channels...typically broadcast at Noon Eastern Time (900 Pacific & 1600 GMT) on ev...

Legendary climber, Wolfgang Gullich, famously said that "the brain is the most important muscle for climbing". Sure, strong fingers are important--but there are many strong-fingered climbers who never reach their potential. The pursuit of better climbing is ultimately an inward journey to gain mastery of the mind. Developing stronger "mental muscle" will enable you to achieve beyond your current imagination. Like wielding a sword with empty hands, your mind will lead your body to new summits.

In this episode, I share with you 10 powerful concepts that can potentially re-invent how you think and what you will achieve...

You've been dreaming about your boulder project, dream route, or road trip. You've trained smart and hard. Your psych is high. You're ready to crush! So, how can you best transition from gym to outdoor climbing, and what can you do to perform your best on weekends outdoors or on a long trip? In this episode, Eric presents a series of powerful tips that you can take to the send bank! He also provides awareness of the potential to self-sabotage, something that even the most experienced climber can succumb to.

RUNDOWN

0:15 – Opening comments--I missed you!

What makes great climbers great?

What are the distinct and rare character traits that make climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold, Margo Hayes, Adam Ondra, and Alex Megos (I call this group "CHHOM")--and others like them--the barrier-breaking and transcendent climbers that they are?

You might be thinking of things like "strong fingers", "low bodyfat, and "excellent sponsorship". Surely these are part of the equation, however, I believe the true Superpowers of these climbers are things you can't measure with a fitness test or financial summary.

In this podcast I present the 8 Superpowers...

As physical as climbing is, it is even more mental. Being technically sound and physically strong is not enough to navigate a high-ball boulder problem, personal-best redpoint, intimidating big wall, or treacherous mountain. Ultimately, you climb with your mind—your hands and feet are simply an extension of your thoughts and will. Becoming a better climber, then, requires that you improve your mental mastery.

In this podcast, Eric describes the vital importance of concentration in a world with ubiquitous distractions conspiring to steal your focus and sabotage your performance. You will be armed with six powerful techniques fo...

Climbers are drawn to the challenges and potential adversity of the steep. Great climbers embrace grand challenges--and almost certain adversity--in achieving hard and rare accomplishments. This podcast will equip you with five powerful strategies to leverage, in times of hardship and adversity, as you pursue big goals both in climbing and in your everyday life. And now in this era of COVID-19, you face risk and potential adversity at every turn...so don't miss this powerful podcast--it's an instant classic in the genre of mental training for climbing!

Podcast Rundown

0:15 - Opening comments about the...

These are crazy times we're living through with the COVID crisis. Most of us are self-quarantined...left to train on a home wall, hangboard, and whatever else we can kludge together. My personal initiative during the growing stay-at-home spell is doing twice-weekly livestream videos that I call "Training Café". You can view these shows--and submit training questions--during the livestream shows simulcast on the Training For Climbing Facebook and T4C YouTube channels. In this podcast, however, I wanted to share with part of Training Café #6...which includes several training Q & As and a brief dive into using Energy System Tr...

An often-used proverbial phrase, to encourage optimism and proactive action in the face of adversity or misfortune, is to "make lemonade out of lemons." In this podcast, Eric Hörst presents a hopeful mindset and approach for persevering through the COVID-19 crisis. He details five tips for effective home training and fostering a stronger immune system. Employing this guidance will lower your risk of illness and prepare your body for a quick return to high-performance climbing this summer!

Podcast Rundown

0:30 - Opening comments about the global pandemic...and its effects on climbing and life in g...

In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 9 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the topics covered are...hangboard training, diagnosing a finger injury, autoregulation use in competition, energy system training, optimal training for a Masters climber, protein requirements, and blood flow restriction training. Listen in!

Podcast Rundown

0:15 - Introduction to Ask Coach Horst

1:45 - About POWERPLEX plant-based protein and collagen alternative for vegan climbers. Use checkout code PODCAST15 to save 15% off full-price PhysiVantage products.

3:05 - Question #1 - What are your thoughts on hangboard training on climbing days...as w...

4 Tips to Improve the Quality of Your Training and Accelerate Progress Toward Your Goals!

It's been said that the definition of insanity is doing the same thing expecting to get different results. Progress demands change. Doing hard things demands great change. Uncommon success demands uncommon self-awareness, discipline, and effort.

This podcast presents four ways to refine, re-invent, or perhaps completely overhaul your training to get better results in the pursuit of your goals.

RUNDOWN

8:50 - Develop a detailed and compelling game plan for 2020. On a calendar, block in possible road trips...

It's the dawn of a new decade, and so I wanted to take this rare opportunity to record a unique and, hopefully, impactful podcast. The topic is...effective training for the climb that is your life.

This is a short and fast-paced episode, so I hope that you can find some quiet time to listen closely...and think critically about the 10 tips and concepts that I present.

Please listen with an open mind. Search for clues to answering the very important question: "how can I become more effective at pursuing my life goals...and enjoying...

Effective training can't be haphazard, nor done ad-lib. In this podcast, you'll learn a supremely effective conceptual model for training that adopts an "intelligent system" approach. Eric describes the nine elements of an intelligent system, and how you can incorporate this system to optimize training results and accelerate goal pursuit!

RUNDOWN

1:30 – Intro to the TFC podcast

3:19 – Learning to climb is simple; learning how to train effectively is complex!

8:10 – Employing a "systems" approach to your training and goal pursuit.

10:32 – The value of waking each morning with a mission.

16:20 – Eric share...

If you're serious about training and climbing your best, then you must be serious about performance nutrition. The foods you consume play a central role in energy production, training adaptations, muscle recovery, connective tissue health, and your strength-to-weight ratio. Combined, these nutritional influences are nearly as significant as the influence of your training program--and, if you get both your training and nutrition right, then a powerful synergy will elevate your performance to a new level!

RUNDOWN

00:40 – Intro to performance nutrition. Why it's important.

4:16 - As a guiding principle, climbers should "eat and train" no...

In a departure from my usual lecture style podcasts, I'm happy to feature a guest on this month's podcast--Dr. Tyler Nelson, a chiropractic physician and owner of Camp 4 Human Performance in Salt Lake City. This is my first podcast interview in about a decade--I believe my last audio interview was with Alex Honnold soon after his free solo of Half Dome (2008). Maybe some day I'll dig out that podcast from the audio vault and post it here! But I digress.

The focus of this podcast is Blood Flow Restriction (BFR) training. This training modality has been around...

This is fourth in a series on sinew training with a specific focus on climbing injuries and prevention. Incidence of climbing injuries is growing, and overuse injuries to the fingers, elbows, and shoulders are common among beginners and expert alike.

Eric lays out the perfect storm of factors that make upper extremity overuse injuries so common. You will learn countermeasures to reduce your injury risk and increase tendon health and finger flexor pulley strength.

If you engage in hard finger training, frequently push your physical limits, and/or occasionally experience tendon or joint pain, then...

In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the topics covered are...energy system training for alactic power, climbing-specific aerobic energy system training, Tabata training on a hangboard, advice for a beginner wanting to hangboard train, the pros/cons of Ketogenic diet, accelerating healing of an A2 pulley injury. Listen in!

Podcast Rundown

4:57 - Question #1 - How important is a climbing-specific aerobic training block at the beginning of a training cycle?

9:42 - Question #2 - Can you provide me with tips on staying healthy and motivated...a...

What makes great climbers great?

What are the distinct and rare character traits that make climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold, Margo Hayes, Adam Ondra, and Alex Megos (I call this group "CHHOM")--and others like them--the barrier-breaking and transcendent climbers that they are?

You might be thinking of things like "strong fingers", "low bodyfat, and "excellent sponsorship". Surely these are part of the equation, however, I believe the true Superpowers of these climbers are things you can't measure with a fitness test or financial summary.

In this podcast I present the 8 Superpowers...

Sinew training. What the heck is that?

Chances are you've never heard of "sinew training"...or even thought about it. After all, genetics and "luck" dictate the properties of our tendons and ligaments, right?

WRONG!

A growing body of recent research has shown that athletes can play an active role in developing stronger, higher performing tendons and ligaments by way of specific training and nutritional interventions. If you engage in hard finger training, frequently push your physical limits, and/or occasionally experience tendon or joint pain, then this podcast will be game-changer for...

In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the interesting topics covered are...the science of "supercompensation", the use of gymnastic exercises in training, dealing with recurrent injuries, fingerboard training, mental training and "head space" development, endurance training, running, and more! It's 45 minutes of training-for-climbing information and fun. Listen in!

Podcast Rundown

4:48 - Question #1 - What exactly is "supercompensation" and how does the intensity and frequency of my training affect supercompensation and my strength and fitness gains?

14:45 - Question #2 - Are calisthenics and gymnastic exercises b...

This may be the most important podcast you've heard in a long time...or, perhaps, ever!

If you engage in hard finger training, frequently push your physical limits, and/or occasionally experience tendon or joint pain...then this podcast could be a game-changer for you.

Traditionally, tendons and ligaments (such as the A2 pulleys of the fingers) have been viewed as inert structures that changed little after adolescence. We now know, however, that these connective tissues are dynamic and metabolically active. New studies provide clues as to how athletes can play an active role in...

Get ready for some breakthrough research-based information that, I believe, is revolutionary for hard-training climbers!

The topic is sinew training—that is, new training and nutritional interventions shown to promote tendon, ligament, and muscle matrix strength and health. We all know how hard climbing (and training) is on the flexor tendons and ligament pulleys of the fingers, as well as the elbows and shoulders; so what could be more valuable to climbers than strategies to improve sinew health, strength, and performance?

This is an information-rich podcast that might require a couple of listens...to determine ho...

New Year's is a great time to think deeply about your goals, re-evaluate your course and strategy, and perhaps even reinvent yourself! Taking your performance to the next level—in climbing or anything—demands CHANGE, courage and commitment, and consistent goal-focused action. In this episode, Eric takes you through a series of thought-provoking exercises and, along the way, he will arm you with powerful techniques and tips to make massive progress toward your climbing and non-climbing goals!

Rundown

0:15 – Introduction and New Year's best wishes!

1:30 – "Climbing performance" and "human performance" are the same thing…so this ep...

This episode provides critical framework and guidelines for effective hangboard training. Based on 30+ years of hangboard training experience--and the latest research--you'll learn the importance of a proper warm up, why you must train different finger grip positions, how to maintain forearm muscle balance and lower injury risk, as well as valuable tips on organizing your hangboard training for optimal results and continued gains in the long-term!

Rundown

0:22 - Introduction

2:00 - Who should hangboard train? Guidelines for beginner, intermediate, advanced, and elite climbers.

8:30 - The value of hangboard training for i...

0:25 – Preview of this and upcoming podcasts.

5:55 - Overview of this summer's International Rock Climbing Researchers Association 4th Congress in Chamonix, France.

10:40 - Research highlight #1: 3-D motion analysis of speed climbing performance, and interpretation of hip mechanical energy in official speed climbing route. (Lionel Reveret - France).

14:45 - Research highlight #2: Effect of climbing hold depth on biomechanical arm action during pull-ups. (Laurent Vigouroux - France)

22:55 - Research highlight #3: PIP joint contact incongruency in different grip positions as a trigger for epiphyseal fatigue fracture in adolescent climbers. (Andreas Schweizer - Switzerland)

31:20...

In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners, including in-depth coverage of effective hangboard training, the importance of developing a climbing "talent stack", details on Threshold training for climbing-specific aerobic development, training while recovering from a lower-leg injury, training for middle-aged climbers, and more!

Podcast Rundown

1:35 - Question #1 - A two-part question on effective hangboard training...with a long, detailed answer offering rich guidance on developing strength and endurance using a hangboard. Part 1: Is it better to train on small edges with body weight or larger holds with added w...

This is the fifth and final episode in our study of Energy System Training theory and application. In this 90-minute tour de force, Eric presents the art of the science via 8 key ideas and distinctions to make your energy system training optimally effective. This is powerful material—understanding and applying this cutting-edge sports science will empower you to elevate your training outcomes...and climb harder!

Podcast Rundown

2:50 – Recap of the genesis of my study of energy systems more than 5 years ago. After a two-year review of the latest research and sports science, I discovered that some...

Welcome to Round #3 of "Ask Coach Hörst"...where I will answer 6 listener questions that I believe you will find interesting and informative. This episode covers wide-ranging topics from the pros/cons of calorie restriction vs. surplus, the possible unintended consequences of a vegan diet or vegetarianism, training while on business trips, training during long spells between climbing trips, the type of training program that's best for an intermediate (~5.10 climber), and more!

4:58 - Question #1 - How can I train effectively given my business travel (as a pilot) that typically lasts 8 days...followed by 6 days at home?

12:2...

This is the fourth in a series on using bioenergetic energy systems as a guiding model to train more effectively. This epic 90-minute episode breaks down the nuance of properly training both the climbing-specific and generalized aerobic energy system—a critical and often-overlooked metabolic pathway that contributes significantly to power production in climbing and, importantly, drives most of the recovery process between moves, crux sequences, climbing, and even boulder problems. There's lots of gold to mine from this podcast, especially for already highly training intermediate to elite climbers.

Podcast Rundown

00:15 – Eric's Intro to training the aero...

Welcome to the second round of "Ask Coach Hörst"...where I answer 10 listener questions. This episode covers vast terrain from fingerboard training to climbing nutrition to youth training to elbow tendonosis and more! Each question & answer runs about 5 minutes.

1:12 - Question #1 - When fingerboard training with weighted hangs...what's the weight-added difference when doing 10" x 1 max-weight hangs compared with doing the 7"/53" x 3 protocol?

5:17 - Question #2 - Is training individual fingers by suspending a light  free weight from a sling a useful technique?

10:40 - Question #3 - What days should I do supplemental training if...

This is the third in a four-part series on energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing your workouts for improved training results and climbing performance. This episode is the conclusion of podcast #23 (on training the Anaerobic Lactic energy system) and it details specific training protocols for improving short, intermediate, and long power endurance. Combined, episodes #23 and #24 make for a super-sized (2+ hours!) brain-bursting, muscle-pumping training for climbing podcast!

Podcast Rundown

0:20 – Intro about how this podcast is actually the second half of Podcast #23—combined they make for 2 hours of instruction on energy system training. A supe...