The Climbing Majority
By: Kyle Broxterman
Language: en-us
Categories: Sports, Wilderness, Education, Self Improvement
Most of today’s climbing media is focused on what happens at the edges of the sport involving the most experienced and talented climbers in the world. Your host Kyle Broxterman believes that most of these stories and experiences do not directly relate to the majority of climbers that now exist. As a part of this group, he is here to give this new Climbing Majority a voice.
Episodes
109 | Vitaliy Musiyenko & Sean McLane | Tragedy, Partnerships & Risk Management in Alpine Climbing
Dec 15, 2025Vitaliy is one of the most prolific and respected alpinists of his generation and has a reputation as a master of long, complex alpine objectives—including becoming the first person to complete The Goliath Traverse in the Eastern Sierra…which might be the longest ridge traverse in the western hemisphere…if not the world.. He's established more first ascents in the Eastern Sierra than any other person, authored a three-volume guidebook series to the Eastern Sierra, and spent years developing new routes around the world. He's summited all the peaks in the Fitz Skyline and only has one summit left t...
Duration: 04:22:45108 | The Developer Of The Nooks w/ Brendan Baars & DJ Viernes
Dec 01, 2025Way out in the Canadian wilderness — six hours from the nearest city, little to no cell reception, surrounded by mossy forests and granite — lies a world-class bouldering destination. Secluded, quiet, and breathtakingly beautiful, The Nooks has quickly become one of the most talked-about new climbing areas in North America. With incredible rock quality and a massive spread of problems from V0 to V13, it’s the kind of place that feels unreal the first time you see it.
The Nooks was first discovered in 2018 by Michigan climber Brendan Baars. Since then, he has spent nearly every climbable weeken...
Duration: 01:37:21107 | Unpacking The Life of A Legend w/ Randy Leavitt
Nov 17, 2025Randy Leavitt.
As a climber who grew up in Southern California, I’ve been hearing this name since the very beginning of my climbing career. Collaborative inventor of the wide-crack climbing technique so aptly named “Leavittation,” developer of thousands of routes — with around a dozen graded 5.14 or harder, including Jumbo Love at Clark Mountain, the first 5.15 in the United States — and long-time athlete manager for Maxim Ropes… Randy’s name has carried serious weight and inspiration for decades. A climbing legend if there ever was one.
I actually remember listening to his episode on The Enormocast way...
Duration: 02:33:29106 | Into The Mind Of A Mountain Guide w/ IFMGA Silas Rossi
Nov 03, 2025Today I have the privilege to be sitting down with our previous guest Silas Rossi..Silas is an IFMGA Certified Mountain Guide and President of the AMGA organization. After Silas and I’s last conversation in April, I’ve been jotting down a list of questions and reflections in preparation for our inevitable next conversation. So simply put, this conversation is a culmination of that list. We dive into a wide variety of topics; including nuanced gear questions surrounding rappelling, anchor building, fixed point belays, and clipping cams in sequence. We also explore more thoughtful questions like what it mean...
Duration: 01:29:49105 | The Performance Paradox: Redefining Success in Climbing and Life w/ AMGA Guide Kevin Heinrich
Oct 20, 2025In his earlier years, Kevin dedicated his life to the craft of climbing. He lived in a van, chased adventure across the globe, and devoted every ounce of his energy to the pursuit of performance. During that chapter, he climbed up to 5.13b, established several major first ascents, and ticked over fifteen hundred routes. Climbing wasn’t just something Kevin did — it was who he was. His identity was built around his achievements, his grades, and his ever-growing tick list… until one day, everything changed. After successfully rope-soloing Freerider on El Cap, a dream that would represent the pinnacle of acc...
Duration: 02:38:10104 | Into the Unseen: Climbing and Living with Vision Loss w/ Justin Salas
Oct 06, 2025Justin Salas has a significant visual impairment. He lost his sight due to an undiagnosed optic neuropathy when he was 14. Imagine, you're a teenager fresh into highschool…you have ambitions to join the military, you already own a small business mowing lawns called J&J Lawn Care…everything seems within reach…and then in what seems like an instant…you lose your sight. While Justin is one of the most humble, capable humans I know…the impact this kind of loss has on the human mind cannot go understated.
It’s been over 16 years since Justin has lost his sig...
103 | Timeless Tales From A Local Legend w/ Andrew Fulton
Sep 22, 2025Red Rock Canyon is a National Conservation Area about 17 miles from the Las Vegas Strip. Its striking red and cream-colored sandstone walls hold thousands of climbs — from 20-foot sport routes to adventurous 20-pitch trad lines. Today, I’m sitting down with long-time local Andrew Fulton. Andrew has been climbing in Red Rocks since January of 1993 — back before the city even had climbing gyms, when pioneers like George and Joanne Urioste were putting up countless first ascents in the canyon. Over the last 30 years, he’s witnessed massive changes in the city, the climbing culture, and Red Rock Canyon itself. As a new...
Duration: 01:29:37102 | Surviving the Goliath Traverse w/ Michael Vaill & Tanner Wanish
Sep 08, 2025Today we once again have the honor of sitting down with The Quad Fathers—Michael Vaill and Tanner Wanish. The last time I spoke with them, they had just wrapped up their legendary Yosemite Quad. But little did we know, on the descent from Half Dome they were already scheming their next big objective: The Goliath Traverse.
To give you a sense of scale, let’s break this thing down. The Goliath Traverse is a south-to-north, ridge link-up of two of the biggest traverses in the Sierra Nevada.
The first is The Full Monty—a notorio...
Duration: 02:29:17101 | A New Era Of Journalism w/ Michael Levy
Aug 25, 2025My guest today is Michael Levy: recreational alpinist, rock climber, journalist and the owner and editor of The Summit Journal. Originally founded in 1955 by Jean Crenshaw and Helen Kilness, The Summit Journal was the first climbing-focused print publication in the U.S.—with Royal Robbins as its main editor. For decades it thrived, reaching over 10,000 subscribers, before being discontinued in 1996. After purchasing the rights to the name, Micheal has since revitalized it into a thriving, subscriber-based, print-only publication.
Let me tell you—before this interview I read the most of the recent issue, and it is beautiful. Matt...
Duration: 01:53:01100 | TCM Legacy: Accidents, Mentorship, and First Ascents w/ Joshua Reinig
Aug 11, 2025Today, we’re doing something a little different. For the first time ever, I’m releasing a TCM Legacy Episode—diving back into one of the show’s earliest conversations, this one with Joshua Reinig.
It’s been over three years since this episode first aired, and a lot has changed since then. For some of you, you’ll hear a familiar voice—my previous co-host, Max Carrier. But the biggest changes are in Josh’s own life, and those changes are exactly why I’m bringing you this newly remastered version of our conversation.
I first met Josh o...
Duration: 02:33:2499 | Beyond Chasing Grades w/ Tal Wanish Part 2
Aug 04, 2025We kick things off by diving into the nuances of Totems—what their limitations are, whether they’re as good as everyone says, and whether the mystical powers of the black Totem are fact or fiction. From there, we dig into climbing partnerships: what to look for, what to avoid, and how we can all be better partners. Tal shares two of his closest calls in the mountains and how they shaped his evolving relationship with risk. And then, we shift to Tal’s true passion: Wonderland.
A 5 sqmi area southwest of Denver, CO that Tal has been d...
Duration: 01:29:4698 | Beyond Chasing Grades w/ Tal Wanish Part 1
Jul 28, 2025Today, I sit down with Tal Wanish—rock climber, mentor, prominent route developer in Colorado’s Front Range, and brother of our previous guest, Tanner Wanish. But Tal’s not just a rogue route developer. He’s a deeply involved member of his local climbing community—someone who chooses to play by the rules in order to help foster sustainable growth for future generations.
He’s replaced over 600 bolts as an instructor with the Boulder Climbing Community, and today he puts most of his effort into the Pikes Peak Climbers Alliance. There, he serves on the South Platte commi...
Duration: 01:07:1197 | The Mountain Angel: A Life of Search & Rescue in the High Sierra w/ Dean Rosnau Part 2
Jul 14, 2025Today, we’re continuing our conversation with Dean Rosnau. If you haven’t listened to Part I yet, I highly recommend checking that out before diving into this episode.
We pick up with one of the most personal and tragic stories in Dean’s life: the loss of his close friend, Pete Schoerner, in an ice climbing accident. This part of the conversation is heavy—graphic at times—so please proceed with that in mind. But it’s also an important story, one that opens the door to a deeper conversation around grief: how it manifests, how we process i...
Duration: 01:51:5496 | The Mountain Angel: A Life of Search & Rescue in The High Sierra w/ Dean Rosnau Part 1
Jun 30, 2025As we progress as climbers and inevitably turn our gaze toward higher peaks and more remote objectives, a common lesson begins to emerge: the mountains are a dangerous place to play. But early on, this remains a lesson heard, not truly learned. Inevitably, with enough time spent in remote places, something is bound to happen—either directly to us, or to someone close enough to sear this truth into our souls.
From an early age, Dean Rosnau found himself brushing shoulders with death, learning not only that the mountains are dangerous—but that life itself is dangerous, and...
Duration: 01:39:0495 | Local Legend of Lover's Leap w/ Petch Pietrolungo Part II
Jun 16, 2025Today, we’re picking up right where we left off with Petch Pietrolungo—climber, AMGA certified guide, free soloist, and the local legend of Lover’s Leap in California. If you missed part one of this conversation, I highly recommend heading back and starting there—it’ll give you a deeper appreciation for where we’re going today.
In this second part, we dive into Petch’s journey to becoming an AMGA-certified guide and how he launched Lover’s Leap Guides back in 2003. We take a close look at stewardship—what it really means, why it matters, and how we all can...
Duration: 01:24:5494 | Local Legend of Lover's Leap w/ Petch Pietrolungo Part I
Jun 02, 2025Today’s episode brings us to one of California’s most iconic granite crags: Lover’s Leap. If you’ve ever climbed here, you already know what makes it special—600 feet of mostly vertical granite laced with splitter cracks and wild horizontal dikes that jut out up to a foot. The featured nature of the rock makes the climbing feel surprisingly secure and approachable, even on steep terrain. But beyond the rock itself, there’s another reason Lover’s Leap is such a memorable place—and that is the local legend who’s made it his home: Petch Pietrolungo.
Petch is...
93 | A Bouldering Gold Rush In Fraser Canyon w/ Denis Langlois
May 19, 2025Today I sit down with Denis Langlois — father, climber, and dedicated route developer. Like many of us he balances climbing with a busy life of work and family. Denis found that bouldering gave him the most freedom. It let him climb on his own schedule — quick sessions, solo missions, and total flexibility.
One day, while commuting to a job site, he passed through a narrow canyon next to his home town in in British Columbia, Canada..and something caught his eye… boulders — tons of them. Unclimbed and Untouched. Denis knew he had to come back.
Fast for...
Duration: 01:33:1592 | An Untold Life w/ Bob Gaines
May 05, 2025When you hear the phrase living legend, what comes to mind?....to me…this is someone who has lived a life to their fullest. A life that inspires us to be our best. Someone whose legacy will outlast them.
Today, I have the pleasure of releasing my conversation with a true living legend…Bob Gaines.
Bob began climbing in the mid-1970s—right in the thick of climbing’s golden era, alongside icons like Ron Kauk, Scott Cosgrove, John Bachar, John Long, and Lynn Hill. But Bob wasn’t just in the audience—he was part of the s...
Duration: 02:19:0591 | Our Illusion Of Safety w/ IFMGA Silas Rossi
Apr 21, 2025In a world flooded with climbing content, tech tips, and loud online opinions, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed when you’re educating yourself on safety systems. The truth? Learning how to climb safely and efficiently can be confusing—and quite honestly pretty dangerous. So what is the best way to learn? Books, YouTube, mentors, guides? Honestly, it’s a mix of all four.
Today’s guest is someone who has spent his life thinking deeply about how we learn, how we climb, and how we can stay alive in the mountains. Silas Rossi is an IFMGA certified g...
Duration: 01:45:1590 | No Hand, No Problem w/ Kimber Cross
Apr 07, 2025Picture this: you’re ice climbing. Now picture doing it… without fingers on one of your hands. Sounds nearly impossible, right? Well today, I sit down with Kimber Cross, a kindergarten teacher, adaptive athlete, and living embodiment of her own personal motto: Can’t. Will. Did.
Born without fingers on her right hand, Kimber grew up doing all the “normal” sports and activities—fully adapting to the world around her. But when she discovered ice climbing, for the first time, she hit a wall. How do you climb vertical ice without a second ice axe?
In true Kimb...
Duration: 01:29:0089 | The Creek Freak w/ Devin Fin
Mar 24, 2025If you’re a crack climber, chances are you’ve either made the pilgrimage to Indian Creek or have at least dreamed about it. Nestled in the Utah desert, this valley holds one of the highest concentrations of pure splitter cracks in the world. It’s quite literally a crack climber’s paradise.
The remarkable uniformity of its cracks require upwards of 16 cams of the same size . While early pioneers like Earl Wiggins made history with routes like Supercrack—established with nothing but hexes—it wasn’t until the late ‘70s and the development of cams that the true potentia...
Duration: 01:50:5288 | The Para-Alpinist w/ Nathan Longhurst
Mar 10, 2025Today I have a truly groundbreaking story from one of my previous show guests Nathan Longhurst.
Last time I spoke with Nathan, he was fresh off his solo ascent of the Cassin Ridge on Denali and making waves in the climbing community. At the time, he had also just discovered his next passion—paragliding. I remember joking back then, hoping he wouldn’t get hurt as he dove headfirst into this new pursuit. But just a few weeks later, he crashed—breaking his pelvis.
Since then, Nathan has pushed even further in fulfilling his vision of merg...
Duration: 02:52:5287 | Unforgotten Lives & Unseen Lines w/ Maximilian Barlerin
Feb 24, 2025Today I sit down with Maximilian Barlerin. You might have first heard his name back in October when Corey Buhay wrote what Max humbly calls “a fluff piece” about his staggering 14-pitch, 5.13 big wall first ascent in the Wind River Range—Children of the Sun. The article described an "everyman" 5.14 climber balancing family, two jobs, a fledgling business, and an impressive list of first ascents. This is the first time Maximilian has spoken publicly about his life.
Max isn’t just a climber…He works as a climbing ranger and search-and-rescue responder in Rocky Mountain National Park. His career...
Duration: 02:16:1786 | A Life Behind The Lens w/ Cody & Victoria
Feb 10, 2025Today, we’re stepping behind the screens and into the lives of Cody and Victoria Blue, a climbing couple who have built a sustainable life around capturing and sharing their adventures in the mountains. Relatively new to climbing, their success lies not in the groundbreaking nature of their climbing achievements, but in their remarkable abilities as videographers and story tellers in the environments that inspire us the most.
Recently, Cody and Victoria documented their journey up one of the most iconic mountains in the world—the Matterhorn. The short film these two produced is super well done and r...
Duration: 02:01:5585 | The Passionate Pioneer of Pacific Northwest Climbing w/ Wayne Wallace
Jan 27, 2025Today, I am sharing a conversation with you that has truly left me inspired and honestly pretty humbled. Wayne Wallace—a name that might not immediately ring bells for some of you outside the Pacific Northwest, but one that should. Wayne is, without exaggeration, a living legend in the climbing world. His dedication to the craft spans decades, and his career has been marked by unparalleled passion, mentorship, alpine route development, and pure adventure.
In this episode, we dive deep into Wayne’s journey—from his early days discovering climbing in a world where the technology for clean f...
Duration: 01:58:0784 | Twins To The Tops Part II w/ Eric and Matthew Gilbertson
Jan 13, 2025Welcome back, everyone. I’m your host, Kyle Broxterman, and today we’re continuing our conversation with Eric and Matthew Gilbertson. If you missed Part One, I highly recommend circling back to listen before continuing here, as we’ll be jumping right into the middle of our two-hour conversation.
Just in the past two weeks, Eric returned from a trip to Colombia with some groundbreaking news. Due to glacial melt, the country’s previously recognized highest peak has lost about 50 meters in elevation and after surveying the region, Eric officially confirmed a new highest point in Colombia—previously...
Duration: 00:57:2283 | Twins To The Tops Part I w/ Eric & Matthew Gilbertson
Dec 30, 2024Have you ever heard of the Gilbertson twins? My guess is probably not, which is surprising given what these two have been up to for nearly 30 years. MIT graduates Eric and Matthew Gilbertson have made it their mission to summit and survey the highest mountain in every country on Earth. So far, they’ve successfully climbed 145 country highpoints, documenting their journeys with detailed trip reports and photos. Similar to previous guest Steph Abegg, Eric and Matthew’s attention to detail and the sheer amount of free information they’ve made available on their website is astonishing. I highly encourage you to...
Duration: 01:00:2182 | The Silent Alpinist Part II w/ Paul Ramsden
Dec 16, 2024Today, we continue our conversation with the legendary Paul Ramsden. If you missed Part 1, hit pause and go back to the last episode—it’s essential listening. In this episode, we pick up with the second of Paul’s FIVE Piolet d’Or-winning climbs: The Prow of Shiva. From there, we journey through each climb, exploring the lessons, challenges, and reflections that have shaped his remarkable career. We close with Paul’s insights on life, climbing philosophy, and advice for anyone daring to follow in his path.
As we wrap up this incredible conversation, I want to send a hug...
Duration: 01:15:4081 | The Silent Alpinist Part I w/ Paul Ramsden
Dec 02, 2024Today, I’m beyond excited to share a truly rare and special opportunity: a conversation with UK climbing legend Paul Ramsden. The Piolets d’Or—often called the Oscars of mountaineering—is the highest honor in alpine climbing, awarded to only those who demonstrate the pinnacle of style and commitment in the mountains. With past recipients like David Lama, Mick Fowler, and Hayden Kennedy, the award emphasizes ascents done in ‘alpine style’—no bolts, no portaledges, no siege tactics. Just you, your partner, and what you can carry on your back as you tackle an unclimbed wall on an unclimbed moun...
Duration: 01:30:3880 | The Yosemite Quadfathers w/ Michael & Tanner
Nov 06, 2024Welcome back to the final episode of the TCM triple crown! Today we get the privilege to sit down with both Tanner Wanish and Micheal Vaill to discuss their most recent achievement, the Yosemite Quad. If for some reason you’ve made it here without listening to the two prior episodes I highly consider stopping and checking those out before you continue here, as they give a background to each individual climber’s life.
Human nature has us craving novelty, so when we hear about an achievement like ‘The Yosemite Quad,’ it’s easy to get caught up in the e...
Duration: 01:16:2379 | Stay Psyched w/ Michael Vaill
Nov 05, 2024Today, we’re continuing The Climbing Majority’s ‘Triple Crown’ series with Michael Vaill, one of the two climbers who recently broke the Yosemite Triple Crown speed record and, just a week later, made history with the monumental Yosemite Quad. If you missed yesterday’s conversation with his partner, Tanner Wanish, I highly recommend giving it a listen after this episode.
If I had to describe Michael Vaill in one word, it would be 'psyched.' His passion is tangible, infectious, and truly motivating. But for Michael, 'psyche' is more than just a climbing mindset—it’s a way of life...
Duration: 01:35:0278 | Hey, It's Buttress! w/ Tanner Wanish
Nov 04, 2024I first reached out to Tanner back in March, right after he and his climbing partner, Michael Vaill, had completed the Red Rock Triple in an impressive 12 hours and 35 minutes. I was stoked to share their story, but little did I know it would take six months to get the chance to sit down with them. Looking back, I couldn’t be happier it turned out that way. Just days after our initial interviews, Tanner and Michael made waves by setting the speed record for the Yosemite Triple Crown. And as if that wasn’t enough, last week they push...
Duration: 02:07:0977 | My Last Episode w/ Max Carrier
Oct 21, 2024Today marks a significant turning point for The Climbing Majority. After three years and 76 episodes, my co-host and partner, Max Carrier, has made the difficult decision to step away from the show to dedicate more time to his educational pursuits, mountaineering, and his personal goals. This episode is dedicated to Max—both in celebration of everything we’ve accomplished together and as a send-off as he embarks on the next chapter of his life.
We start by diving into Max’s current life as a full-time student and where he envisions his educational career taking him. We reflec...
Duration: 00:43:5976 | My Path To Happiness Part II w/ Tyler Karow
Oct 07, 2024Welcome to Part II of our conversation with Tyler Karow. If you missed Part I, I highly recommend checking it out before continuing here.
Tyler Karow has built a highly engaged following on YouTube and Instagram, to the point where many might label him as an influencer. While his impact on the climbing community is undeniable, Tyler is quick to distance himself from the typical “influencer” role. Constantly promoting products or leaning into that stereotype is the furthest thing from his goals. He believes that his ability to capture the raw adventure and authentic connections he experiences duri...
Duration: 00:49:2475 | My Path To Happiness Part I w/ Tyler Karow
Sep 23, 2024I'm sure we've all been there—the dream of living a life solely dedicated to climbing: sponsorships, life on the road, making a living through our passion for the sport. For many, this represents the ultimate freedom. Often, this grand vision captures us in our early climbing years, yet it seldom holds much reality. Attracting sponsors and dedicating your life entirely to climbing requires something truly special. For most of us, this dream starts to feel one-dimensional, perhaps even a little unrealistic. Climbing, as fulfilling as it is, can sometimes no longer be the clear answer to all of li...
Duration: 01:10:3774 | I Am Gravity Lab Part II w/ Brant Hysell
Sep 09, 2024Welcome back to Part II of our conversation with Brant Hysell. Climber, olive mafia boss, and man behind The Gravity Lab YouTube channel. If you missed Part I, I highly recommend checking it out before continuing here.
Today, it’s story time with Brant as we dive into three of his most memorable climbs: Freestone, Lurking Fear, and his recent solo ascent of the Salathé. Most of us would spend months, if not years, meticulously planning and training for objectives like these. But for Brant, these climbs were more about stepping into the unknown and leaving room for...
Duration: 01:06:2773 | I Am Gravity Lab Part I w/ Brant Hysell
Aug 26, 2024In the age of social media and digital platforms like YouTube, creators often develop a "digital persona" that’s shaped by the content they produce. As viewers, it’s easy to make assumptions about who they are and how they live their lives. Today, we have the chance to peel back the layers and break down the digital persona behind The Gravity Lab YouTube channel.
At first glance, this channel seems to be run by a pair of climbers living out of a van with endless time to send some of the most epic routes around the worl...
Duration: 00:57:0072 | Climbing North America's Most Iconic Route Part II w/ Bryce & Evan
Aug 12, 2024Today, we continue our conversation with Bryce and Evan about their recent successful completion of The Nose on El Cap. If you missed episode 71, I recommend checking it out before continuing here.
After listening to their account of what transpired on the wall during those 72 hours, I came to a realization. When we look up at a piece of rock like El Cap, we imagine what it would be like to physically climb it. What moves we would make, what gear we would place, and how we would manage the risks. But after we complete the objective...
71 | Climbing North America's Most Iconic Route Part I w/ Bryce & Evan
Jul 29, 2024I think you would agree that there is arguably no rock formation more infamous than El Cap . With its massive presence in the development of North American climbing, iconic size, and technical challenges, it stands as a beacon for climbers worldwide to test their abilities on a sea of stone. When we start climbing, El Cap is often at the forefront of our minds—a dream expressed as “Man, I would love to climb that one day.” But how many of us actually take the steps to make that dream a reality? Sometimes it feels like El Cap is reserv...
Duration: 00:56:3770 | Ordinarily Extraordinary Part II w/ Evan Wisheropp
Jul 15, 2024Today, we are continuing our conversation with Evan Wisheropp. If you missed part one, I highly recommend checking it out first. It provides a foundation for understanding who Evan is as a climber and how he achieved the objectives we’re discussing today.
In this episode, we’ll dive into Evan’s two main passions: desert offwidth splitters and route development.
First, we’ll discuss Evan’s recent send of The Cleaver, a 13b offwidth roof crack that, as Evan puts it, "contains all the hardest transitions of sizes that offwidth can offer, jumping from a splitter...
Duration: 00:59:4769 | Ordinarily Extraordinary Part I w/ Evan Wisheropp
Jul 01, 2024Today, we are sitting down with Evan Wisheropp, a part-time professional photographer with a full-time passion for climbing.
Evan's climbing journey began like many of ours—in a gym. From there, he explored various climbing disciplines until he found his true passions: desert offwidths and route development.
Off-width climbing, takes Evan to Indian Creek and Moab, Utah, every year to tackle massive desert offwidth splitters. His latest project, The Cleaver, a 13b offwidth roof Evan spotted while scouting…. After several failed attempts, he handed the first ascent to the Wide Boyz but returned the next seaso...
Duration: 00:41:1168 | Seven Years of Silence Part II w/ Myles Moser
Jun 17, 2024Hey everyone, thanks for tuning in and for being a part of The Climbing Majority. Today, we're diving into part two of our conversation with Myles Moser. If you missed part one, I highly recommend going back to the previous episode before continuing.
This episode is PACKED with stories that will keep you on the edge of your seat. So I will keep this introduction brief. First we explore Myles' incredible experience establishing the first ascent of his route 'Plate Tectonics,' a 21-pitch Grade VI 5.12 C1 on the east face of the North Tower of Torres...
Duration: 01:14:4667 | Seven Years of Silence Part I w/ Myles Moser
Jun 03, 2024In today’s world, where social media, technology, and commercialism are at the forefront of our minds, the reasons why we climb can sometimes get a bit confusing. Professional climbers often need an “audience” for brands to market their products to, and climbers everywhere, myself included, share videos and photos of our recent ascents. It makes you wonder… why do we climb? Is it truly for personal satisfaction, or are we chasing clout and recognition for our achievements?
For Myles, this era of “clout chasing” and immediately posting about our climbing is completely against his ethos. He climbs for h...
Duration: 00:44:2666 | The Sandstone Alpinist Part II w/ James Barrow
May 20, 2024Welcome back to part two of our chat with James Barrow! In our last episode, we heard about James' journey as a climber and what events ultimately lead to his most recent achievement: The Complete Towers of the Virgin Traverse. A link up that covers 20 distinct peaks, and 18.5k of elevation gain over 28 miles. The terrain involves runouts upon runouts, canyoneering, bushwacking, steep snow travel, soloing, and an abundance of massive full 70m rappels using a fiddle stick. At 5.9+R/M2R. Nothing of this length or technical difficulty has been done in Zion in over 20 years.
T...
Duration: 01:49:5765 | The Sandstone Alpinist Part I w/ James Barrow
May 06, 2024When you hear "Zion National Park," what comes to mind? The Narrows, Moonlight Buttress, and some of the most stunning sandstone cliffs and peaks you’ll ever see, all packed into a canyon visited by over five million people each year. But what about the possibilities beyond the main canyon, beyond the classic hikes and climbs?
Today, we’re chatting with James Barrow. He's a father, climber, and electrician by trade. James quickly developed a knack for climbing, finding himself leading sport climbs in the 5.12+ range in under six months. But, after rushing his progression, he seriously inju...
Duration: 01:00:0564 | Get Paid To Make 3D Climbing Maps w/ Martin Mora
Apr 22, 2024What’s up everyone thanks for being here and for being a part of The Climbing Majority. Today we sit down with Martin Mora, co-founder and developer of Red- Point. Red-Point is a new app where you can use interactive 3d maps to explore and get detailed route information on boulders and crags. If you haven't already seen their social posts of their app in action…definitely go check them out.
Martin is a unique individual who like many in the majority, found climbing later in his life. He found himself spending way too much time wondering where...
Duration: 00:59:0963 | Climbing Isn't Just White People Sh*t w/ Eddie Taylor
Apr 08, 2024In today's ever increasingly polarized world it can be difficult to have challenging conversations. Kyle and I are well aware that the issue of representation in sport is one that does not affect us personally.
However we were lucky enough to sit down with all around rad dude, climber extraordinaire and recent new father Eddie Taylor to learn about his ascents and what his thoughts were on the topic of representation. As a black climber in a predominantly white climbing climate Eddie gives us his perspective.
For those who don't know Eddie is a very...
62 | Mountain Project vs. Open Beta | A Fight For Data Rights w/ Viet Nyguen
Mar 25, 2024Today, we're diving into something that most of us are all familiar with - Mountain Project. It's the guidebook that's always at our fingertips, supported and enriched by our very own community. Yet, as revolutionary as it has been for sharing and discovering climbs, it brings up a few questions that we might easily overlook. Questions like, who actually owns the data we input? What happens to our contributions if we decide to bow out and delete our profile? And what do these practices mean for the future of climbing information? Honestly, these questions can really make you pause...
Duration: 00:57:3561 | Injured & Alone in Alaska, a Coach's Journey w/ Scott Johnston
Mar 11, 2024The mountains will try to kill us and yet they have no malice.
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They freeze us and yet warm our souls.
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They fill our lives with joy and yet have nothing tangible to give.
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The mountains deserve our respect.
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They require meticulous preparation, mentally, spiritually and physically.
Today we are sitting down with a master of preparation. Scott Johnston is a world renown Endurance coach. Some of the athletes he has worked with over the years include Killian Jornet, Steve House, Alex Honold and Tom Evans to name a few...
60 | Beyond Climbing Hard w/ Jonathan Siegrist
Feb 26, 2024Have you ever imagined what kinda person you have to be mentally and physically to climb some of the hardest routes in the world? Maybe how that person views themselves and their own accomplishment? Or even how they might view the everyday climber?
In this conversation we wanted to move beyond what it's like to climb hard. What are the lessons of a 5.15 climber and how can we apply Jonathan's viewpoint and experiences to improve our own lives?
Jonathan helps us remember life is about private little victories. He suggests that it's important be gen...
59 | The Timeless Nature of Climbing Partnerships w/ Bryce Ungersma
Feb 12, 2024Today we are sitting down with my good friend Bryce. Funny enough, I met Bryce before either of us were climbers. We each found climbing separately, but inevitably we roped up and quickly became a great team. Recently, Bryce and I spent a weekend trad climbing in Red Rock Canyon. Despite not climbing together for several years, getting out on the rock in red-rocks felt just as fun, and natural as before. We may change and the environment changes but our friendships endure.
In our conversation, we talk about fatherhood and how it changed Bryce’s relationship wi...
Duration: 01:03:5458 | The Night Bryn Spejcher Fatally Stabbed Her Boyfriend 108 Times w/ Mike Tagg
Jan 29, 2024Warning: this episode contains graphic descriptions of violence that might not be suitable for all audiences, especially children. If you're not in a space to listen to this content, please consider saving this episode for another time.
On May 28th of 2018, Chad O’Melia was brutally stabbed to death in his own home by his girlfriend Bryn Spejcher after they had smoked marijuana together. The state-appointed forensic psychologist on the case, Kris Mohandie, wrote in a 37-page report that Spejcher appeared “possessed” and proceeded to repeatedly stab herself and her own dog despite being tasered multiple times. It was...
Duration: 00:51:5157 | "Yer Gonna Die" - Elitism In Climbing w/ Landon McDowell
Jan 15, 2024I would argue that our climbing community is mostly open, kind, and understanding. But I am sure we all have our own experiences with people who are not. The silent judgy squad that think they own the crag. The keyboard warrior that spreads hate, judgment, and negativity behind the protection of a screen.
Today we sit down with Landon McDowell, a self proclaimed “Reformed Elitist”. Having started climbing at the age of 14 he quickly noticed a natural proclivity towards the sport. Climbing soon became the source for Landon's identity, ego, and happiness. He noticed this and its effect...
Duration: 01:10:5556 | TCM 2023 Recap
Jan 01, 2024We are celebrating two years of podcasting and taking a look back at the growth and development of the show. We've covered a wide range of topics in the past year including recreational climbers and professional athletes involved in tragic accidents, huge accomplishments, and much more. We are excited to continue exploring new conversations in the coming year and are also excited to announce some updates to the show, including a new website, sponsorship opportunities, and live events. We are grateful to all our guests who have shared their stories and experiences on the show, and to all of o...
Duration: 00:28:0155 | Achieving The Impossible..Climbing 5.14 On Gear w/ Mary Eden
Dec 18, 2023Welcome to the last episode of 2023. Thank you so much for being a part of our growing community…It means a lot to Kyle and I that you are here. As climbers we've all seen videos and media depicting near impossible feats of physicality. You've probably seen these videos and thought “I could never accomplish something so hard”. But are these limitations we put on ourselves real? While our guest today is not a part of the Majority….. she once was. As a young spirited climber she never believed she could accomplish climbing 5.12. Fast forward to the present day, Mary Eden...
Duration: 01:05:5954 | The Seven Volcanic Summit Infinity Loops w/ Jason Hardrath
Dec 04, 2023This podcast is no stranger to traumatic life altering accidents. It is easy to let these events cripple us, and hard to allow them to transform us. Jason Hardrath, PE teacher from Klamath Fall, OR and competitive endurance athlete who’d just qualified for the Ironman 70.3 World Championships. Found himself ejected from a moving vehicle. He suffered a broken shoulder, collapsed lung, torn ACL and multiple internal injuries. Its fair to say the Jason is lucky to be alive. Just Three years later, Jason became the first person ever to establish 100 FKTs and currently sits with 121 under his belt. No...
Duration: 01:20:5553 | From Simul to Stranded at 14,000ft. w/ Ethan Morris and Evan Geller
Nov 20, 2023Teamwork…Communication…and Trust…are all paramount characteristics of a successful climbing partnership. And our safety is based around our own humility, proficiency, and confidence in the mountains…. The perfect balance of all these attributes is a complicated equilibrium to achieve. Today’s story is about what can happen when these pillars start to fall apart. When the ego takes over confidence….and when communication fails to keep everyone on the same page. That is when you find yourself in over your head, unable to retreat, and unable to move forward…at 14000 ft.
Today we sit down with Ethan Morr...
Duration: 01:16:1052 | Alone On The Cassin Ridge w/ Nathan Longhurst
Nov 06, 2023The Mountains test us, and shape us. We cannot lower the mountains. So we must elevate ourselves to their level. We should strive to choose goals in life that will challenge us, test us and that we think are impossible. Only through aiming at the highest peaks we can possibly envision will we truly transcend the suffering of the world to find meaning and purpose. For some this may be being a good life partner, having kids and enjoying the outdoors. For others it may mean climbing the wildest and gnarliest lines possible.
Our guest today at...
Duration: 01:54:0951 | From Battlefields to Mountain Peaks: A Veteran's Journey w/ Austin McCall
Oct 23, 2023As climbers we are aware of the finality of our actions. The possibility of death is always looming. Paradoxically, knowing this, is what can make us feel so alive. We know our actions have consequences, and only through the mastery of body and emotions can those consequences be mitigated to avoid the finality of death. Our guest today is no stranger to death. Austin McCall completed 13 tours of duty in the military. Operating in both Iraq and Afghanistan with the army's 75th Ranger Regiment. In this conversation we discuss how Austin began to work with the Veteran Adventure Group...
Duration: 01:18:2650 | Climbing The Fishhook Arete on Mt. Russell w/ Kyle Broxterman
Oct 09, 2023Welcome back everyone! We are about 1.5 years into this podcast and you are currently listening to our 50th episode and are rapidly approaching 30k all time downloads and just wanted to say thank you for being a part of this growing community, Max and I are beyond pumped that your here, and are excited to keep sharing stories of climbers around the world.
Today’s conversation is about my recent successful summit of Mt Russell via the Fishhook Arete in the Eastern Sierra in California. While, thankfully, nothing dramatic occurred, we talk about the new permit logistics fou...
Duration: 01:16:2549 | Failed Protection & Rope Soloing w/ Colin Jokisch
Sep 25, 2023Climbing can be risky, and it's easy to overlook those risks when you've never experienced them first hand. You might hear stories of injuries or even fatalities, but until you experience something first hand you are missing a true understanding of the risks you are taking. Enter Colin Jokisch, a seasoned climber whose world changed after a near-fatal fall on an Arkansas roof crack. Colin's accident gave him PTSD, especially when using trad gear—a sentiment Max and I deeply understand. Like most of us his love for climbing didn't go away. Instead of choosing to quit the sport al...
Duration: 01:17:4148 | Denali's Fastest Known Time (FKT) w/ Jack Kuenzle
Sep 11, 2023Our guest today is not a part of the majority; he is the very definition of a small minority of athletes doing unfathomable feats. Today Kyle and I are sitting down with Jack Kuenzle, a former Navy Seal who grew up in Dallas Texas. Jack attended Yale receiving his B.A before he joined the Navy Seals and completed Basic Underwater Demolition Seals Training (BUDS). He is best known for his pursuit of FKT,s. Some of his accolades include Beating Killian Jornet’s fastest known times on the 66 mile Bob Graham Round, a mountainous traverse around England's lake di...
Duration: 01:30:0947 | Climbing The Matterhorn w/ Joshua Kasumovic
Aug 28, 2023Climbing larger mountains, especially ones that are far away from home… takes a lot of planning, training, logistics, and a little bit of luck. We spend months preparing for what sometimes comes down to a single day on a mountain. So what happens when you're 700 ft from the summit, and you realize touching the top might mean you won’t come back? While that seems like an easy choice…. The weight of seemingly wasting months of planning, training, and traveling can be almost too much to bear…This is a decision we are all faced with at some point in our l...
Duration: 01:21:5146 | Close Calls While Skiing Solo On Denali w/ AMGA Guide Alex Mitchko
Aug 14, 2023As mountain athletes it's easy to get consumed by our objectives and our drive to continuously improve and get stronger can be draining. It can make us forget that one of the most meaningful parts of the mountains is the people we meet on the way, the bonds we form and the experiences shared.
In this conversation we explore what drives a 25 year old who was born and raised in the flat state of Long Island New York to pursue a challenging solo ascent of Denali. Our Guest today is Alex Mitchko, an apprentice ski and alpine...
Duration: 01:39:0445 | Developing Wild & Untouched Boulder Fields w/ Brendan Baars
Jul 31, 2023The cool thing about climbing is that it means something different to everyone. From the weekend warrior trad dad to the dedicated dirtbag, each of us has our own reasons for interacting with the vertical plane. For Brenden, he has always wanted climbing to mean something to him, and for his efforts in the climbing community to mean something to others. With a natural proclivity to bouldering, Brenden, on his first outdoor bouldering trip during his first year of climbing, sent a v9. At first, it seemed like his direction was going to be focused towards becoming a professional...
Duration: 01:09:4044 | Summiting Denali w/ Max Carrier
Jul 17, 2023As climbers we all have our own goals and ambitions. In 2019 I had the goal of climbing the tallest mountain in North America. I had just recently completed an ironman and was looking for my next challenge. Life had other plans for me though. Unfortunately, the Covid-19 pandemic and a fall that nearly took my life all happened in 2021. Fast forward from 2019 to present day my girlfriend Rae and I have just returned from Climbing the West Buttress of Denali. Four years have passed and I've learnt a lot of things since initially wanting to climb Denali. But the...
Duration: 01:44:2743 | How To Climb Like A Pro w/ Coach Charlie Schreiber
Jul 03, 2023As a budding trad climber, climbing hard and improving my grades is something I've struggled with the last several years. Time, energy, and life commitments can make it hard to focus on certain goals. As someone who is always looking to improve, sometimes I need help organizing and focusing on the correct things with my limited time.
You've probably found yourself in a similar situation? Maybe you want to just learn a little more or maybe you want to take your climbing to the next level. One thing is for sure is that a coach can help...
42 | The Mountains Are In My Blood w/ Steph Abegg
Jun 19, 2023As we’ve seen on this podcast, there can be some serious consequences to playing in the mountains. But one thing that seems to stay consistent, is that no matter how traumatic the injury, how devastating the loss, we are always finding our way back to the mountains. Why is that? What calls us back to the activity and environment that caused the pain in the first place?
Our guest today is Steph Abegg. Climber—Photographer—Adventurer— and Math&Data Nerd. For as long as she can remember, she has been triply afflicted with an insatiable thirst for adve...
Duration: 01:30:0241 | Get Out Of Your Own Way w/ Kevin Roet
Jun 05, 2023Have you ever walked up to a route saying “I can’t do this' ' or “I am going to fall, I just know it”. What happens? Chances are your prediction of the future comes true. Our own internal dialogue, whether negative or positive, shapes our reality. But how do we change our perception of ourselves, become aware of our internal dialogue, and learn to climb psychologically unencumbered?
Our guest today is Kevin Roet; climber, coach, founder of Rise & Summit outdoor education, and the author of “Climbing Psychology”. Kevin has been climbing since he was 18 and over the years not...
Duration: 01:21:4740 | The Power of the Great Outdoors w/ Jacob Urban
May 22, 2023In today’s episode we sit down with Jacob Urban. Mountain athlete and Founder of The Jackson Hole Outdoor Leadership Institute. Climbing put Jacob on a path and in his words climbing is what “led him to himself”. Now with over 30 years in the industry of Outdoor Education he is here to teach us not only how to survive in the mountains, but how we view ourselves and our relationship with the world around us. We hear about Jacob’s story…. cover topics such as Risk and Ethics….and finally discuss what our subconscious’ role is in how we interact with...
Duration: 01:46:2839 | 80m Runout WI7, Soloing Ice, & A Fatal Accident w / Philip Setter
May 08, 2023As an amateur alpinist I love climbing ice, it is such a foreboding medium to climb on. Here one day and gone the next, it is ephemeral in nature. But for anyone who has swung an ice axe into a beautiful line of frozen water, you know the satisfaction that the sport of ice climbing can provide.
Our guest today is Philip Setter, Philip is an avid ice climber who has had the opportunity to climb with one of the best Ice climbers on the planet, Stas Baskin. Phil is the owner and operator of the Canadian...
Duration: 02:16:3138 | Sky Diving, Climbing, and a Fatal Stabbing w/ Mike Tagg
Apr 24, 2023In our last conversation we sat down with a gentleman by the name of Mike Tagg where talked about the ethics behind climbing on wet rocks and provided a way for us, The Majority, to make better, well informed decisions on when we can climb after a a rain. But, we did not have the chance to do what we normally do on this show, hear Mike’s story, because I don’t know about you but we are always interested in hearing all the vastly different ways people find this magical sport, and how it impacts each individual's life...
Duration: 01:49:4937 | Climbing On Wet Rocks...An Ethical Debate w/ Mike Tagg
Apr 10, 2023I don’t know about you, but this winter has been insane for us on the west coast. Record snowfall, rainfall, and constant cold weather. While it does seem like we are finally coming to a close of this long winter as temps are warming up, one thing in my mind that has stuck out the most, and that is the debate of climbing on wet rocks.
Wet rocks are a part of nature…but certain kinds of rock become brittle and fragile after considerable saturation. With a season as wet as 2023, this topic sits at the fore...
Duration: 01:10:0036 | From 5.6 to 5.12R in Two Years w/ Joey Latina
Mar 27, 2023Most of the time we come across successful climbers after their massive accomplishments…the climbs, first ascents, and daring projects that put their name on the map. But rarely do we get to meet or hear about these people before their time. Before their groundbreaking achievements that cast them into the limelight.
Today is one of those days. We get to sit down with a young crusher by the name of Joey Latina who is a local here in Las Vegas, NV. At the remarkably young age of 16 Joey is already making quick work of his path towa...
Duration: 01:06:1535 | How to Survive Tragedy w/ Ben Lavoie
Mar 13, 2023Everyone in their lives experiences suffering, trauma, depressed states and difficult times. Some people experience these events early in life and some later on. But ultimately, suffering and loss are both tragic and a natural part of the human experience. Our guest today reached out to Kyle and I. He is Ben Levoie. Ben had a traumatic car accident which left him badly injured and severely concussed. This incident resulted in Ben losing 10 years of memory and living with PTSD. Ben wants to share his story in the hopes that it will help others deal with their own trauma...
Duration: 01:31:5934 | Don't Fall, Don't Fall, Don't Hit The Ground w/ IFMGA Dale Remsberg
Feb 27, 2023As we are sure most of you know accidents happen to the best of us and when you spend enough time in places with severe hazards it's not a question of if, but when. Nevertheless, it is easy to get complacent, and comfortable and that's when things go wrong. Today, we sit down with IFMGA certified mountain guide Dale Remsberg. We connected with Dale after hearing about an accident he had while leading ice that almost took his life.
With some luck and a badass mentality he was back top-roping ice only 10 days later, which is pretty r...
Duration: 01:23:2733 | A Mentor, A Friend and A Big Red Truck w/ MT Mountaineering & Climbing Instructor Callum Nelson
Feb 13, 2023Recently I've been seeking mentorship and guidance to help improve my climbing. This can be a tricky endeavor, finding someone you trust and respect can be challenging. With this in mind, I reached out to a local Ice climbing group in search of such a person. With some amazing luck, I connected with Callum Nelson. Through our conversation, I quickly realized that Callum was an accomplished climber and UK Certified Rock Guide who has climbed all over the world. Callum and I climbed a beautiful Water Ice 5 Called Shriek of the Sheep on the West Coast of BC this...
Duration: 01:43:2932 | Climber Rescues Crashed Base Jumper w/ River Barry
Jan 30, 2023One thing I’ve learned about climbing over the years is that you never really know when something might go wrong, that human error and the randomness of nature are something we as climbers can’t really avoid. So instead we prepare ourselves to deal with the unknown, to come equipped with the tools necessary both physical and mental to rescue either ourselves or others when things go wrong. Remember that story that was all over the news a few months ago, about a climber who had rescued a base jumper who crashed, hanging precariously on a cliff? Today we g...
Duration: 01:34:4831 | Route Development, Stewardship, and a Dark Side w/ Colby Wangler
Jan 16, 2023I don't know about you but when I first started climbing..creating a first ascent and developing a route was something my regular climbing partner and I would fantasize about—looking out the car window on long road trips for any rock formation that might have been untouched, a prize yet to be claimed. However, like most of you, I am sure, I was too enthralled in actually climbing to take the time, money, and focus to become a route developer.
With climbing being so accessible, and there being over fifty thousand published routes on Mountain Project bet...
Duration: 02:10:5230 | The Past, The Present, & The Future of TCM
Jan 02, 2023We are celebrating one year of our podcast and taking a look back at the growth and development of the show. From discussing how to cope with traumatic injuries to interviewing climbing legends like Alan Burgess, we've covered a wide range of topics in the past year. These have included belaying, mental health and addiction, physical therapy, adaptive athletes, fear and risk, and much more. We are excited to continue exploring these topics in the coming year and are also excited to announce some updates to the show, including a new brand presence, improved equipment, and enhanced sound quality...
Duration: 00:59:4629 | How Not 2 Have Gear Fear w/ Ryan Jenks
Dec 19, 2022As I am sure all of you are aware. Max and I simultaneously injured ourselves in climbing accidents. After my injury, I started to look at climbing in a completely different way. And one of the main things that struck me was that we never really know whether a piece of trad protection is truly going to hold a fall…. until you fall on it. That didn’t seem very safe to me, how are we supposed to learn the limits of our gear and understand what happens to them under load without risking our lives? Today we get to s...
Duration: 02:18:1828 | The Hard Rock 100, a 300 Foot Fall, and a Fatal Avalanche w/ Adam Campbell
Dec 05, 2022In this episode, we sit down with Adam Campell. Adam is a man in motion who has dedicated his life to the pursuit of athletics and movement in the mountains. During his years as an athlete, Adam has been a member of five Canadian national teams in the sports of mountain running, ski mountaineering, and the duathlon/triathlon. His deep athletic base and hard work ethic have allowed him to become one of the best ultra runners on the planet. Arguably one of Adam’s most notable achievements was at the Hard Rock 100, a notorious race at high-elevation in th...
Duration: 02:22:2127 | A Close Call, Fatherhood, and Climbing in the Balkans w/ Chris Stephens Sr.
Nov 21, 2022This episode really represents the foundational purpose of this podcast. That being, to hear climbing stories and chat about climbing topics with fellow recreational climbers. Climbers with full-time jobs, relationships, kids, and lives outside of their world of climbing. Climbing is such an amazing sport and one of the reasons is that you don’t need to climb extremely hard grades or dedicate your life to it in order to have life-changing, empowering, and inspiring experiences. In today’s conversation, we sit down with Chris Stephens Sr., a father, soldier, traveler, and of course a climber. Chris reached out to m...
Duration: 01:31:0326 | Climbing in the Death Zone w/ Climbing Legend Alan Burgess Part II
Nov 07, 2022In our last episode, we sat down with legendary high-altitude climber Alan Burgess and discussed his upbringing and his most notable alpine & super alpine ascents. In this episode, we continue our conversation and dive into his most notable high-altitude climbs including the west ridge of Everest in winter, Dhaulagiri in winter, Annapurna IV in winter, and K2. We talk about the complicated logistics of large-scale expeditions, the dangers of climbing above 8000m, and what Al Burgess is doing now.
Please rate, review the show, and share this podcast with your friends...
25 | A High Altitude Climbing Legend Part 1 w/ Alan Burgess
Oct 24, 2022All right, people, today is a special day because we are sitting down with one of the most legendary high alpine climbers of the 20th century. His name is Alan Burgess. Alan first reached out to me after seeing a climbing majority poster at our local climbing gym here in Reno. We met at a coffee shop and I did not know what to expect, having not known who he was or about his stories up to this point. He handed a book to me. It was called The Burgess Book of Lies, and his vision was to turn...
Duration: 02:39:1124 | Climbing Nutrition w/ Caitlin Holmes
Oct 10, 2022As a relatively larger climber, sitting around 200lbs and having gone through recent traumatic injuries… my weight… and my positivity around my own body image have fluctuated a lot. As fellow climbers, I am sure you know the struggle of trying to juggle performance, health, weight gain…or weight loss. In today’s conversation, we discuss a topic that so many of us struggle with. It's the foundation of our energy, our happiness. Basically our entire lives…..I'm talking about nutrition.
In this episode, we sit down with Caitlin Holmes. Caitlin is a board-certified Nutrition Specialist who received he...
Duration: 02:18:5423 | Inside the Mind of an Orthopedic Surgeon w/ Dr. Scott Whitlow
Sep 26, 2022As I am sure most of you are aware this podcast’s creation stemmed from Max and I’s traumatic climbing injuries that occurred just over a year ago. Within a week of each other and in different countries Max and I both took trad falls and sustained ankle injuries that required surgery. If you haven’t heard those stories cruise back to episodes 2&3. As a patient of surgery, I was curious as to what the procedure was like. What was going through the surgeon's head? What was actually happening while I was under with a tourniquet wrapped around my leg...
Duration: 01:53:1022 | Dirtbag Rehab & Mind Tools w/ ACMG Apprentice Guide Catherine Pitura
Sep 12, 2022Summary
In today’s episode, we sit down with Catherine Pitura an ACMG apprentice rock guide and the founder of Mind Tools. Catherine as she puts it “is just a person with a big climbing experience”. Like so many of us, she fell quickly in love with the sport of climbing, but, unlike many of us, she had the opportunity to live the dirtbag dream. For nine years she lived and breathed climbing. During this time, she became a capable trad leader and certified apprentice rock guide. Towards the end of this nine-year climbing cycle, she st...
21 | The Alpha Female Mentality w/ AMGA Guide Lindsey Hamm aka. "The Hamminator"
Aug 29, 2022Summary
In our 2 hour long conversation, we sit down with AMGA-certified guide Lindsey Hamm or so aptly named “The Hamminator”. Hamm is an AMGA-certified single-pitch instructor and a certified rock guide. She has also completed her AMGA Ice Instructor Course….Advanced Alpine Guide courses and currently… is on track to becoming the 18th female ever to receive an IFMGA pin. She has guided and climbed all around the Western US and has spent time in India and China, and at the time of this episode, launching is in the middle of a climbing trip in Pakistan...
20 | The Mysteries Behind Concussions and Pulley Injuries w/ Physiotherapist Quinn Turner
Aug 15, 2022In this episode, we have a conversation with, registered physiotherapist and climber, Quinn Turner. We found Quinn’s Instagram account @alpine.physio and was truly inspired by his content. Quinn resides in North Vancouver BC where he works out of Body Works Sports Physiotherapy and Kinematics Sports Medicine & Rehab. He began his studies at the University of Calgary obtaining a BSc in kinesiology and later receiving his Masters from the University of Alberta. Quinn specializes in concussion and vestibular rehabilitation but treats a wide range of ailments found in the life of a climber. Like all of us, Quinn ha...
Duration: 01:24:4919| Chasing a First Ski Descent in the Himalaya w/ Arc'teryx Athlete Eric Carter
Aug 01, 2022In today's episode, we speak with Eric Carter. Eric is an Arc'teryx athlete who resides in Squamish British Columbia. He spent 5 years on the us national ski mountaineering team and holds the speed record on Mount Rainier and the Tantalus Traverse. Eric has an M.S in Exercise Physiology and a PhD where he studied the affects of altitude on humans. In this conversation we cover the topics of snow safety, avalanche training, and training for the mountain athlete and alpinist. We also do a deep dive into Eric's recent trip into the Himalaya, where he searches for a...
Duration: 01:51:3618 | Accidents, Mentorship & The Art of First Ascents w/ AMGA Guide Joshua Reinig
Jul 18, 2022In this episode, we sit down and talk with AMGA guide Joshua Reinig. I met Josh about 7 years ago when I first started climbing. His immediate willingness to share his knowledge and stoke helped shape me into the climber I am today. Throughout his climbing career, Josh has led over 6000 guided trips, established over 2000 first ascents, and is currently in the top 25 all-time contributors to Mountain Project. His deep excitement for climbing and passion for sharing it is contagious energy to everyone around him. In this 2.5-hour conversation, we talk about Josh’s past and how he came to be...
Duration: 02:29:4217| Injury Prevention, Rehabilitation, and Returning to Sport w/ Physical Therapists Matthew Oravitz and Kevin Wright
Jul 04, 2022About a year ago both Kyle and I were involved in bone-shattering climbing accidents that changed the way we view the world and ultimately became the spark for the creation of this podcast. In our earlier episodes, we spent time discussing our accidents, recovery processes, and the psychological effects traumatic injuries have on the mind. Having now recovered to a point where we both are participating in climbing and living a pseudo-normal life we felt it was time to talk with some professionals. In this episode, we talk with physical therapists Matthew and Kevin about the bio, psycho, social...
Duration: 01:58:0816 | Living & Climbing the Impossible w/ Jack Ryan aka. Paralyzed to Peaks
Jun 20, 2022Today, in episode 16, we sit down, in person, with Jack Ryan an adaptive trad climber and mountaineer and founder of Paralyzed to Peaks. Jack is not your average trad climber. On November 29th Jack’s neck was crushed in an illegal move done by his blackbelt instructor during a Jiu-Jitsu sparing session. He suffered a broken neck at C4-C5 resulting in paralysis from the neck down as well as numerous strokes due to blood clotting the following morning. He lost everything that day and has been fighting to regain it all ever since. Since his life-changing injury, and ha...
Duration: 01:24:4315 | Mental Health, Addiction and Climbing w/ Harvey Merritt Wright
Jun 06, 2022Harvey is a musician, hairdresser, and climber from Vancouver BC. He is best known for the recent award-winning documentary Crux, a full-length film about his life, his struggle with addiction, and his relationship with climbing. In this conversation we discuss how Harvey fell in love with climbing, the process of filming Crux, and dive deep into mental health, drug addiction and consumption.
The negative stigmatization and false imprisonment of those who use illegal substances has a drastic impact on so many people's lives. We hope that this conversation is apart of reducing this stigmatization and normalizing the...
14 | Climbing Talk w/ AMGA Rock & Alpine Guide Max Lurie
May 23, 2022In this episode, we sit down with Max Lurie. Max is an AMGA-certified Rock and Alpine guide and an accomplished alpinist. We get his perspective on several topics, including risk and social media. We talk about the best and worst ways of obtaining climbing knowledge, what it's like to hire a guide, how to best prepare for an objective, and how even a professional guide gets criticism and shame in his DM's.
Resources:
1) Max Lurie's Website
https://alpinetothemax.com/
2) Instagram
@alpinetothemax
3) The American Alpine Club
...
13 | Belaying, The Unsung Hero w/ AMGA Guide Cody Bradford
May 09, 2022In the sport of climbing, we are almost always focused on what's happening on the sharp end, the leader, the art of climbing. But what we seem to miss is that without a belayer climbers are free soloing. While climbing, our ability to stay attached to the wall and the gear we place are our primary line of safety, but our belayers are the ones that in the end save our lives when we make mistakes. We feel that the art of belaying is underrepresented and feel that it needs to be talked about and given more appreciation so...
Duration: 01:54:4512 | A Broken Heel 1,700 Miles From Home w/ James Pymn
Apr 25, 2022James Pymn, is a British climber who loves routes with character, even if that means assuming lots of risk. From free soloing large multi-pitch routes to leading 7c (12c) trad routes with obligatory 8m (24ft.) runouts, James has had a climbing career one could say is of "full value". In this episode, we take a look into James' life as a climber, discuss the elusive British grading system, and talk about his accident involving a 70ft fall and an obliterated calcaneus, all while in a foreign country 1,700 miles from home.
Links:
IG: @dirtyroadhard
11 | Psilocybin as Medicine w/ Eric Nelson
Apr 11, 2022In this episode, we interview Eric, a personal trainer, entrepreneur and health coach who resides in Reno, Nevada. With his clients, he focuses on the four fundamentals of health: sleep, food, movement, and connection to breath in tandem with sub-perceptual or micro-doses of psilocybin. We dive into our own personal anecdotes and experiences with psilocybin and its use to reduce anxiety and depression by creating new neural pathways that can reframe the negative beliefs we create our reality around.
**Please reach out to a professional before considering psilocybin as a medicinal option.
Links:
<...
10 | Words From a Fallen Soloist w/ Josh Ourada
Mar 28, 2022In this episode, Max and Kyle speak with Josh Ourada. A climber who survived a harrowing 175ft fall while free soloing "The Nutcracker" in Yosemite Valley. His story has been covered in Climbing Magazine and talked about across the web, and for good reason. Beyond the miracle of his survival and the details of his accident, Max, Kyle, and Josh dive into the ethics behind free soloing, how media plays a role in our perception of risk, and what life is like on the other side of cheating death.
Links:
Outside Magazine:
https://www...